How to access national parks and other nature reserves in Estonia by public transport

However glorious Tallinn, Tartu and Pärnu can be, you’re missing out on a quintessential experience if you stick to the cities of Estonia. Nature is what defines this country. Wherever you turn, you’ll find forests and meadows full of wildflowers, dramatic cliffs and sandy beaches, marshes and bogs, lakes, islands and waterfalls.

Estonia’s nature can be enjoyed in every season, but the long June and July days are especially suitable for berry-picking, swimming in lakes, making bonfires, camping or simply going for a hike. Estonians use these summer months to recharge the batteries for the long and wearing winter.

No car? No problem! Cities are better connected than the countryside, but that doesn’t mean that backpackers or budget travellers can’t enjoy the national parks and nature reserves of Estonia using public transport. As long as you have time and patience, you can get almost anywhere.

Below, we list some options to inspire you. Nature is everywhere in Estonia, so your only limit is your own imagination. Be creative, get off the beaten track. If we can do it, without a car or smartphone, you can, too.

Pro-tip

The everyman’s right, or the right to roam, entitles everyone to access nature, swim in lakes and rivers, and forage, even on private land. It also allows campers to pitch a tent almost anywhere in this country. Or you can use RMK’s network of camping areas. These spots have limited facilities: a picnic table, a dry toilet and a fire pit. Firewood is often provided at these locations.

From Tallinn

Lahemaa National Park

Viru bog in Lahemaa, near Tallinn.

Lahemaa was the Soviet Union’s oldest national park and still a great sense of pride for Estonians. Coastal cliffs, pine forests, bogs and sandy shores make up the biggest national park of the country. Arranged tours from Tallinn allow you to explore multiple areas within the national park but can feel rushed and are often expensive. You can easily visit Lahemaa by yourself, using public transport. You will have to choose which areas you’ll visit, but you’ll get a much more relaxed experience like that. Being able to take your time to swim in a bog lake or to pick blueberries is what summer in Estonia is all about. We’ve included instructions on how to reach Viru bog, arguably the most popular attraction within Lahemaa.

How to get to Lahemaa with public transport?

Not too difficult.

Many options. Bus 151/151A/152/153/155E from Balti Jaam/Vabaduse Väljak/Kivisilla/Kesk turg/Bussijaam (check on Google Maps which stop is easiest to reach for you) to Loksa. Bus 277 to Vergi tee (Võsu). Or bus 18V (Aseri). Get off at Loksa Tee (on the highway, short walk to the trail) or Ulliallika (15 minutes walk to the trail). The trail loops around through bog and forest, so you can make a full lap or start in one end and finish in the other. One-way bus ride costs around €3. Check Google Maps for concrete time tables.

Camping in Lahemaa

Kalmeoja campsite, 300 metres away from the trail, has space for up to 6 tents.

Aegviidu

Forests around Aegviidu

Located 65 kilometres from Tallinn, Aegviidu has several options for hiking. You can explore the Sõõriksoo nature trail, which starts right next to the train station and loops through pine forest and peat bogs. Not enough? Hike through the forests towards Nelijärv, following a string of lakes. Pick your favourite for a refreshing swim. We did so in Nikerjärv, which has a small beach, changing cabin and toilet. End your day with a beer in Nelijärve Holiday Center. You can also take the train back to Tallinn from Nelijärve if you don’t feel like walking all the way back to Aegviidu.

How to get to Aegviidu by public transport?

Very easy.

Trains from Balti Jaam roughly every hour. Check Elron for time tables. A one-way ticket costs €2,89 in advance, or €3,40 on the train.

Camping in Aegviidu

The RMK campsite near Nikerjärv allows up to 15 tents. Those without a tent can also stay cheaply in Nelijärve Holiday Center. We’ve stayed in this hotel before – it’s simple but comfortable and excellent value-for-money. A stay also allows for hiking outside of the camping season.

Viimsi

Anete in front of an erratic boulder near Tädu, Viimsi.

Just out of Tallinn, Viimsi is connected to the city’s public transport network. Which makes it a good option for those time-strapped travellers who want to soak up some nature. On the east side of Viimsi lies the Tädu nature study trail, which runs for 3,1 kilometre through a spruce forest dotted with rocks and erratic boulders. In fact, there are so many rocks that some trees have started growing on them, the most famous of which, Tädu Kuusk (or Tädu spruce), stood tall on a rock for more than 130 years until a storm tore it down in December 2011. We extended our exploration by hiking from the centre of Viimsi, which took us through neighbourhoods of newly built compounds, meadows and forests.

How to get to Viimsi by public transport?

Very easy.

Bus 1A takes you from Viru keskus, near Tallinn’s old town, to the centre of Viimsi. This is by far the most frequent bus to Viimsi (multiple times per hour). Get off here at Viimsi keskus if you want to hike to Tädu nature study trail (the scenic route is 7,1 km). Or jump on bus V2 and get off at stop Tädu kuusk.

Hiking route from Viimsi Keskus to Tädu forest trail
Scenic route from Viimsi Keskus to Tädu.

Bus 115 takes you all the way from Tallinn (Balti Jaam/Mere Puiestee/Hobujaama) to Tädu kuusk. This is the most direct route, but less frequent (roughly every two hours).

Camping in Viimsi

There is a campfire site, but no camping facilities. Viimsi does have a hostel and a few other accommodation options.

Waterfalls Jägela / Keila

Estonia’s nature is very human-sized. For the most part, there are no imposing canyons or breathtaking mountains here. Which is great, I like the intimacy of the landscape. It made it all the more fascinating when Anete told me about this “Niagara-sized” Jägela waterfall. Turns out she kind of misjudged the size of the Niagara waterfalls, but then again, she also thought that Lake Peipus was the biggest in the world (it’s number 41). This doesn’t take anything away from the experience of visiting Jägela, the widest waterfall in the country. The slightly smaller Keila waterfall is a great alternative. Both Jägela and Keila also look great in winter, when they freeze over and form icefalls.

How to get to Jägela / Keila by public transport?

Both are easy.

Bus 154 runs from Balti Jaam (with stops at Vabaduse Väljak, Kivisilla, Keskturg and Bussijaam) to Leisi. Or take bus 152A to Loksa. Get off at Koogi kauplas. A 15-minute walk to Jägala waterfall. A shop next to the bus stop sells all the essentials for a picnic.

Keila waterfall is actually in Keila-Jõa, not in Keila itself. Bus 108/127 run from Balti Jaam (with a stop at Vabaduse Väljak) directly to Keila-Jõa. Roughly every hour. Bus 237 goes less frequently from the Estonia Theatre. A one-way ticket costs €2,3 (2018).

Camping near Keila

There are no RMK camping spots near Jägela waterfall. A popular camping site at the seaside, RMK Meremõisa, is located 3 km from Keila waterfall and can host up to 50 tents.

Pakri Peninsula

This peninsula features beaches, forests, meadows filled with wildflowers, old military bunkers, stunning cliffs, so impressive they once marked the old Estonian kroon bills, and the tallest lighthouse in the country. And top of all of that, it’s one of the easiest day trips from Tallinn with public transportation. In summer, plenty of road trippers will drive up to the lighthouse and the adjacent café. But they don’t venture much further, so most of the trails are still pretty empty. Come in winter to marvel at icefalls.

How to get to Pakri Peninsula by public transport?

Super easy.

Take a train to Paldiski – once a Soviet naval base, still an important port from where you can take a boat to Sweden. You can follow the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route from Paldiski, which coincides with the Pakri Peninsula Hiking Trail. Rather than retracing your steps, you can continue on the east side of the peninsula and return by train from Põllküla or Laoküla. Vice versa is an option, too, but I’d recommend starting early from Paldiski to get the cliffs to yourself.

Important note: I’ve seen people commenting on Google Maps that the trail is temporarily closed off due to a construction project. I’ve not managed to confirm this information, so let me know if you’ve visited recently.

Camping on Pakri Peninsula?

RMK Leetse – five campsites that line the more beachy east side of the peninsula. Be aware that these are very popular in summer. When we passed, all the sites were taken (by car drivers, of course). Arrive early if you want to camp.

There is also a guesthouse next to the lighthouse. It looks like a fantastic place to stay, but we haven’t had the privilege.

Marimetsa Nature Reserve

Compared to the famous bogs of Lahemaa National Park, Marimetsa Nature Reserve is a bit more low-key. A 4.5-km one-way trail takes you to a viewing tower, initially through spruce forests and eventually through a nice variety of fens, raised bogs and transitional mires. In other words, this is the archetypical Estonian bog experience – including the chance to swim in a bog lake. A first for me!

How to get to Marimetsa Nature Reserve by public transport?

Relatively straightforward.

From Tallinn, take a bus heading for Haapsalu and get off in Risti. From there, walk to the information board at the start of the hike (4km). Out and back, this would be a nice 17-km day hike.

Alternatively, after finishing the Marimetsa trail, you can continue your hike until Kullamaa, where multiple Tallinn-bound buses pass daily.

Camping near Marimetsa Nature Reserve

We didn’t camp but decided to spend a night in the smallest of the cute garden cabins of Paepealse Guesthouse. A basic but comfortable stay – the garden has plenty of options for rest and relaxation. The friendly owner cooked up a delicious breakfast for us and served it on the terrace.

Metsanurme

Metsanurme – Üksnurme history and nature and study trail loops through fir and deciduous forest and along rivers, over dusty countryside roads and wooden bridges spanning streams, past archaeological sites and a crumbling manor house. Lots of variety, in short, for a walk that clocks in at just under ten kilometres.

How to get to Metsanurme by public transport?

Easy peasy.

Twelve direct trains a day leave Tallinn for Rapla or Türi (eleven on weekend days). Less than half an hour later, you’ll reach Kasemetsa (which means birch forest). From the train station of Kasemetsa – which houses a fast-food shack – it’s a gentle 1.5-km walk to the start of the hike near the town’s communal volleyball field.

Camping in Metsanurme

Plenty of space next to Keila river, with an outdoor fireplace, a shelter with table and benches and a dry toilet.

Tabasalu

West of Tallinn, slowly crumbling limestone cliffs extend along Kakumäe Bay. You can hike both on top of the cliffs as well as on the beaches below them – although you should be aware of occasional rockfalls. From Tabasalu starts a 3.5-km hiking loop. Another option, for those looking to get more kilometres in their legs, would be to walk the stretch of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route that leads from Tabasalu all the way to the port of Tallinn, 25 km in total.

How to get to Tabasalu by public transport?

Super easy.

One option would be to take city bus number 4 to Tiskre, get off at the last stop (Tiskre) and walk from there. This is especially useful if you have a Tallinn bus pass, as you’ll not have to pay extra. Alternatively, plenty of buses head towards Tabasalu. From Balti Jaam number 122 direction Vääna-Jõesuu, 127 to Klooga Pood or Rannamõisa, 126 to Lohusalu sadam or 129 to Munakivi tee. All these pass Vabaduse Väljak, so you could get on there as well. On Vabaduse Väljuk, you’ll have a few additional options – number 124 to Vääna-Jõesuu or 180E to Rannamõisa. A ticket costs €1,90 and can be bought from the driver. Get off at stops Rannamõisa, Mere tee, Tabasalu or Kallaste.

Camping in Tabasalu

Not really an option. Tallinn has a few campsites – this one and this one look promising.

Paunküla hills

For those who can’t make it to Karula National Park, Paunküla provides a similar experience in a smaller area. With scenic lakes and bog pools stretching out between pine-forested eskers, the landscape is just as varied. The terrain is hilly – although, like everywhere in Estonia, you won’t need any mountaineering gear. Trails of different lengths can be combined into a big hike.

How to get to Paunküla by public transport?

Easy, but few daily buses.

Bus number 140 to Ardu leaves Estonia (Solaris mall) at 8:30 in the morning, passing Rõõsa at 9:28. From the bus stop, it’s only 200 metres to the start of the hiking trail. If you’re camping, you could also consider the afternoon bus – leaving Tallinn at 15:30 and arriving at Rõõsa at 16:26.

For the return journey, the most convenient bus, again number 140, reaches Rõõsa at 17:04 and arrives at Estonia stop at 18:04. Number 139 passes Rõõsa at 18:53 and arrives in Tallinn at 20:07, though the final stop is not Estonia but Balti Jaam. For those camping, there’s also a morning bus, at 9:54. A one-way ticket costs €3,70.

It’s very much worthwhile to come early – i.e. by bus! When we arrived on the morning bus, we had the place to ourselves. When we left, the car park had filled up completely.

Camping in Paunküla

RMK Paunküla campfire site offers space for ten tents. Facilities include an open firepit, a few covered tables and a dry toilet.

Long-distance hiking route Peraküla-Aegviidu-Ähijärve

The state forest management centre (RMK) has created multiple long-distance hiking trails that cross the whole of the country. The longest one, from Peraküla in the northwest to Ähijärve in the southeast, runs for 812 kilometres through all possible landscapes you can find in this country. Admittedly, hiking the whole thing sounds like an amazing adventure and features highly on our bucket list.

For now, however, we have contented ourselves with walking a few sections of the trail as day trips from Tallinn. The good thing is that the parts that fall within Harjumaa are well-connected to the capital, so the following are all easily manageable by public transport. I don’t have data on the exact distances, but we did all of these during the short days of late autumn and winter. Consequently, they’re all extremely achievable in a day. In other seasons, it might be possible to combine two stages into a longer day hike.

  • Padise – Vasalemma

Possibly my favourite of this short list, running through dark forests and passing the monastery in Padise, Rummu Quarry and the manor house of Vasalemma. Bus 146 to Padise, train back from Vasalemma.

  • Vasalemma – Keila

A whole day away from civilisation, ending in the warm Scottish pub of Keila. Train to Vasalemma, train back from Keila.

  • Keila – Metsanurme

Through fields and forests, following Keila river until Metsanurme. Train to Keila, train back from Kasemetsa.

  • Metsanurme – Tuhala

Again, lots of forests and a potential picnic break at Saarte bog campfire site. This hike ends in Tuhala, famous for its Witch’s well (although it’s quite a bit of a detour). Train to Kasemetsa, bus 130 back from Tuhala.

  • Tuhala – Kose-Uuemõisa

More forests and the beautiful freshwater springs of Saula. Kose-Uuemõisa is one of the few towns along the way with facilities for re-stocking. Bus 130 to Tuhala, bus 138 back from Kose-Uuemõisa.

  • Kose-Uuemõisa – Alavere

We hiked this section through deep snow, got into time trouble and had to divert our hiking route. Again, peaceful forests where you can feel alone in the world. Bus 138 to Kose-Uuemõisa, bus 105 back from Alavere.

  • Alavere – Aegviidu

Aegviidu is a hiking paradise, we’ve said that earlier. But this section is less popular than other parts of the surroundings. We didn’t come across a single soul all day. For logistical reasons, we turned this one around – taking a train to Aegviidu and bus 105 back from Alavere.

In Tallinn

Pääsküla

Even closer to Tallinn’s old town than Viimsi, Pääsküla bog presents the ultimate nature opportunity for those who really don’t have time to get out of the city. This is a miniature version of the bog scenery you can find in Lahemaa and Soomaa, including two hiking loops, wooden board walks and an observation tower that provides a terrific view over the landscape. It’s hard to believe you’re so close to the city.

How to get to Pääsküla by public transport?

Very easy. Take bus 5 from Viru (roughly every 15 minutes), and get off at Kauge. From the bus stop, it’s a 15-minute walk to the trailhead.

Walk from Kauge bus stop to Pääsküla bog.

Camping in Pääsküla

There is no RMK camping spot in Pääsküla, but Tallinn has accommodation options for every budget.

Harku mets

Another great option for hikers with little time to explore outside of Tallinn. On the edge of the city stretches out a nature area so vast that you can easily make a 15-km loop through pine forests, dunes and mires. Harku mets warrants a visit in any season. The forests offer a cool shaded place in summer with plenty of blueberry picking opportunities. In autumn, the ferns give the landscape a lovely brown colour, and winter enthusiasts can explore the cross-country ski tracks during the coldest months.

Getting to Harku mets by public transportation

From Viru bus stop, take bus number 20 or 20A and get off at Nõva, Õitse or Sireli. Or opt for number 10 and get off at Pääskula, Õitse or Sireli.

Camping near Harku mets

Not really an option. Tallinn has a few campsites – this one and this one look promising.

From Pärnu

Soomaa National Park

Wooden boardwalks through Riisa bog, Soomaa National Park.

Soomaa, or the land of bogs, lies between Pärnu and Viljandi. It’s a wilderness brimming with fauna and flora. During the fifth season, when the snow melts, large parts of Soomaa get flooded and become only accessible by canoe. Although most websites and people will tell you that you need a car to get to Soomaa, we’ve visited Riisa bog by public transport. It’s challenging, sure, but also highly rewarding. When we arrived by bus, roe deer jumped over the roads in front of us, running through the foggy fields as the sun rose. This is one of the most popular trails in the country, but, because the bus arrived so early, we had this picturesque bog to ourselves for hours until the first cars arrived. A magical wild place.

How to get to Soomaa by public transport?

Challenging, but possible.

Bus 99 leaves Pärnu’s bus station at 6:05. Yes, that’s early enough the see the drunks waggle home from the Bermuda triangle of Pärnu, around the nightclubs at the end of Rüütli street. The bus reaches Jõesuu at 6:43, which is where you’ll get off the bus. It then continues to Aesoo and the same bus returns to Jõesuu at 7:29, making the last stretch to Riisa, arriving at 7:39. At the time we made the visit, it was not possible to stay on the bus, but the friendly driver didn’t make us pay again for the second part (although, technically, it was a new ride). Other times, the driver allowed us to stay on the bus. Jõesuu has a shop, a small café and even a cider factory, but none of those was open that early, so we simply walked around the village to stay warm.

In the afternoon, bus 99 leaves Pärnu at 14:30, arriving at Riisa at 15:20 (without the pause in Jõesuu). This option is only available to campers, as there are no later buses to take back to Pärnu.

The return journey starts at 15:20 from Riisa, arriving at 15:30 in Jõesuu. Whilst the bus makes it loop to Aesoo again, you have just enough time to eat a portion of fries or a burger in the village café. Called Jõesuu KülaKohvik, literally: village café. Estonians don’t beat around the bush – a cheese or flower shop is usually called Cheese Shop or Flowers here. Get lost with your creative names. The bus to Pärnu leaves from Jõesuu at 16:21.

A one-way ride costs €1. (2023 edit: it’s now €1,5 by transport card, €2 if you pay in the bus.)

Camping in Soomaa

Meiekosa campsite, located roughly 4 kilometres from Riisa bog, has a forest hut for three and enough space for five tents. Alternatively, Villa River Rose offers decently priced rooms with breakfast in Jõesuu.

Estonia’s Southwest coast

Anete on Lemme Beach, on the Estonian Southwest coast.

When we lived in Pärnu, we made a hike in episodes from the city towards the Latvian border. We followed the coastline, southwards. These sparsely populated areas of Pärnumaa, an endless string of spruce forests, sleepy fishermen’s villages and summer houses along the old Riga highway, make for great hiking. If you stay in Pärnu, it’s very easy to jump on a bus headed for Ikla, get off anywhere, hike for a couple of hours, and get back on the same bus, this time northbound. One option would be to get off in Häädemeeste, which has a few facilities to stock up or fill your belly, and hike towards a campsite more southwards. See camping for inspiration.

How to get to Estonia’s Southwest coast by public transport?

Bus 74 goes to Ikla, on the border with Latvia, and follows the coastline. Feel free to get off anywhere, you can’t go wrong. Buses are going around 10 times a day. It takes roughly 45 minutes to reach Häädemeeste. A one-way ticket costs €1.

Camping on Estonia’s Southwest coast

Lemme and Krabi are two very extensive RMK camping sites that stretch for hundreds of metres along the coast. Due to their size and popularity, there is no free firewood available. Priivitsa, in Kabli, is much smaller and quieter, with space for five tents.

[Read more about our hiking adventures on the coastline. Part one / Part two]

Kilingi-Nõmme

Pine forests in winter in Kilingi-Nõmme.

A sleepy town near the Latvian border, Kilingi-Nõmme has a direct bus line to Pärnu and a hiking trail in close proximity to the bus station. The Kilingi-Nõmme forest trail goes through – you guessed it – pine forests on sand dunes. Ideal for berry-picking in the summer, mushrooming in autumn or snow hiking in winter. Kilingi-Nõmme is your typical Estonian small town, which means it has everything you need as a hiker: a shop to stock up and two cafés to warm with a coffee/cool down with a beer after your hike.

How to get to Kilingi-Nõmme by public transport?

Easy, but irregular. Bus 82/84/85/86/149/371/372 all go directly to Kilingi-Nõmme from Pärnu, some quicker than others. LuxExpress, Taisto and Estonian Lines also have buses on this line. A one-way ticket ranges from €1 (buses starting with 8) to €6 (LuxExpress).

Camping in Kilingi-Nõmme

Kilingi-Nõmme has both a forest hut (which can be rented from RMK), a camping area for up to three tents. A little outside of town, there is also a camping with facilities and a change to stay in a cabin.

From Tartu

Pühajärv

RMK campsite Angunina, next to Pühajärv.

Aah, South Estonia! These rolling hills are the ‘Alps of the Baltics’. Remember this comes from a nation whose citizens compare Jägala waterfall to Niagara. Otepää is the winter capital of Estonia. Even in summer, you can see skiers in silly fluorescent stretch sports clothes practice on skis with rollerskate wheels. Near Otepää lies Pühajärv, a postcard of a ‘holy lake’ with five islands in the middle of it. The surroundings lend themselves well to hiking. A whole lap around the lake measures 14 kilometres.

How to get to Pühajärv by public transport?

GoBus runs a regular bus service from Tartu to Otepää. We walked from Otepää to Pühajärve, the village at the trailhead, a pleasant 30-minute stroll. You can also take a bus from Otepää to Pühajärve. Tämme Ari doubles as a bar/café and a small village shop. It’s the perfect place to stock up before you enter the nature.

Camping around Pühajärv

Four RMK campsites dot the lake. Kiigimäe is the biggest and can host up to 30 tents. Kooliranna has space for ten tents. We stayed at Angunina 1, which doesn’t have a page. There is space for two tents. A little further lies Angunina 2. Alternatively, there is plenty of accommodation for every budget in and around Otepää.

Rõuge

Kährila järv, one of seven lakes in Rõuge.

A quaint village amidst a string of lakes, Rõuge is another place of superlatives. Suurjärv, the ‘big lake’ at its feet, is the deepest in the country. There are seven lakes in total, all different in size and shape. We were swimming in the last one, Kährila järv, when a busload of tourists walked by. They looked at us as part of the attraction. Some picked up their cameras, a few rose their hands in greeting. They almost ran away with our underwear. Who wouldn’t want that as a souvenir? We found the reason for this tourist activity a while further. At the end of a 10-kilometre long hiking trail through this primaeval valley lies Hinni canyon, the only of its kind in Estonia. A small wonder of nature.

How to get to Rõuge by public transport?

This route requires a change in Võru, a sleepy provincial city by the lakeside. Eleven buses per day, ran by different companies. A one-way ticket costs between €3 and €5.

Bus 122B/123A/125/181 goes from Võru to Rõuge 14 times per day. A ticket costs €0,80.

Camping in Rõuge

We recommend staying in Rõuge for the night rather than trying to cram four bus rides into a single day. The closest RMK campsite is, alas, 9 kilometres away in Haanja. Luckily, Rõuge offers plenty of accommodation options. We stayed in Guesthouse Suurjärve, where you can also pitch your tent for €3/person.

From Valga

Karula National Park

Estonia’s smallest national park definitely warrants a visit. Covering 123 km2 in the south of the country, Karula is a patchwork of hills laden with wildflowers, pine and birch forests, small patches of bog and lots of lakes that slowly turn into swamps, offering a home to moose, deer, wild boars, lynxes, wolfs and the countries largest population of black storks, as elusive as they’re beautiful. RMK’s long hiking trail loops for 36 kilometres through the park’s most picturesque landscapes. Shorter hikes are available as well. Discover below more about our two-day visit to Karula.

How to get to Karula National Park by public transport?

Karula National Park is as far as you can get from Tallinn without crossing a border. The area is remote and rural, and public transport access is patchy. With a bit of patience, however, everything is possible. You’ll probably want to travel to Valga first, a border town in the south of Estonia with train or bus connections to Tallinn, Pärnu (direct or via Viljandi) and Tartu (via Võru).

A free bus leaves Valga multiple times a day – although less often on weekends – and runs through parts of the national park. We found it most useful to get off in Lüllemäe and get on the trail from there. From Võru, you can also get to Ähijärve, the official starting point of the loop. Unless you’re an ultrarunner, walking the long hiking trail will take multiple days. Reserve a minimum of two days, three if you want to take lots of breaks.

Camping in Karula National Park

There are ten campfire sites in Karula National Park. These are small areas with space for two to ten tents – although a few of them are solely for grilling and picnicking and don’t allow overnight stays. We stayed at the campfire site Veski, on the banks of lake Ähijärv. There is also a more extensive campsite – Suuremäe, which has space for up to 50 tents – and a forest hut. All of the facilities are free to use. Wild camping elsewhere in the national park is not allowed, except on private land with the permission of the owner.

We sandwiched our exploration of Karula National Park with two nights in Valga, where we stayed in the comfortable, homely and affordable Helge Guest House. I can’t find it anymore on booking – it might be temporarily offline and could still exist. There is a guest apartment with the same name but in a different location, it could be from the same owner. If not, booking.com has a few other options.

Resources

  • RMK is the governmental organisation that manages the state forests. Its website is chock-full of information on hikes and camping spots. Although it does offer driving instructions, it usually doesn’t mention public transport. That’s for you to find out.
  • Tpilet. The best source of information to look up bus routes and timetables all across Estonia. You can also use it to buy tickets on selected lines.
  • Elron. On the website of Estonia’s train company, you can find a journey planner and travel and ticket information.
  • Google Maps. Works like a charm to look up bus and train times in Estonia and, especially, to make itineraries, which does not really work on Tpilet.

Disclaimer

Prices and timetables are subject to change. This post will be updated as we explore more of Estonia. By public transportation, of course. We don’t have cars or driver’s licences and don’t intend to get any in the future (cars, frankly, are for people who lack imagination). You can rest assured that we’ve personally tested all these trips.

Environmental issues

Estonia boasts that trees cover half of its surface, yet the country loses forests at alarming rates. Over the course of a decade, Estonia’s logging volumes tripled. Economists and politicians claim that there’s “more than enough” but institutions such as the Estonian Academy warned that logging compromises a healthy and resilient ecosystem. Flagship species, such as the flying squirrel, are under increasing threat.

The country’s forests are set to become a net carbon source by 2030, according to predictions by the European Commission. Yet, Estonia keeps lobbying in Brussels for more flexibility to cut down even more forests. Lots of it is being used for biomass and wood pallets, an ironic backfiring of the EU’s renewable energy directive.

The best way to protect the forests of Estonia is by visiting them as a tourist. By raising the topic on social media, as well as in your travels. And by asking Estonians about the issue.

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