How to access national parks and hiking trails in Estonia by public transport

However glorious Tallinn, Tartu and Pärnu can be, you’re missing out on a quintessential experience if you stick to the cities of Estonia. Nature is what defines this country. Wherever you turn, you’ll find forests and meadows full of wildflowers, dramatic cliffs and sandy beaches, marshes and bogs, lakes, islands, and waterfalls.

Estonia’s nature can be enjoyed in every season, but the long June and July days are especially suitable for berry-picking, swimming in lakes, making bonfires, camping or simply going for a hike. Estonians use these summer months to recharge their batteries for the long and wearing winter.

No car? No problem! Cities are better connected than the countryside, but that doesn’t mean that backpackers or budget travellers can’t enjoy Estonia’s national parks and nature reserves using public transport. As long as you have time and patience, you can get almost anywhere.

Below, we list some options to inspire you. Nature is everywhere in Estonia, so your only limit is your own imagination. Be creative, get off the beaten track. If we can do it, without a car or smartphone, you can, too.

Pro-tip: the everyman’s right in Estonia

The everyman’s right, or the right to roam, entitles everyone to access nature, swim in lakes and rivers, and forage, even on private land. It also allows campers to pitch a tent almost anywhere in this country. Or you can use RMK’s network of camping areas. These spots have limited facilities: a picnic table, a dry toilet and a fire pit. Firewood is often provided at these locations.

From Tallinn

Lahemaa National Park

Lahemaa was the Soviet Union’s oldest national park and still a great sense of pride for Estonians. Coastal cliffs, pine forests, bogs and sandy shores make up the country’s biggest national park. Arranged tours from Tallinn allow you to explore multiple areas within the national park but can feel rushed and are often expensive. You can easily visit Lahemaa by yourself, using public transport. You will have to choose which areas you’ll visit, but you’ll get a much more relaxed experience like that. Being able to take your time to swim in a bog lake or to pick blueberries is what Estonian summer in Estonia is all about.

How to get to Lahemaa by public transport?

Viru bog (Viru raba)

Viru bog, one of the most popular attractions within Lahemaa, is easily accessible by public transport.

Bus 151/151A/152/152A/153/155/156 all go from Balti Jaam to Loksa, bus 277 goes to Võsu. You can also get on at Tallinn stops like Vabaduse Väljak (Freedom Square), Kivisilla, Kesk Turg (market) or Bussijaam (bus station). Check on Google Maps which stop is easiest to reach. Click on the links for bus schedules or – probably easier – use Google Maps.

Depending on which bus you took, get off at:

• Viru raba, directly to the hiking trail (151/151A/155/277)
• Ulliallika, a 15-minute-walk from the trailhead (152/152A/153/156)

A hiking trail loops around through bog and forest, so you can make a full lap (5.7 km) or start on one end and finish on the other (3.5 km). Don’t forget your swimming clothes if you want to take a dip in the bog lake.

A one-way bus ride costs €3,80 if you buy it with cash from the driver, €2,85 if you use credit from a Smartcard (June 2024). Bus 277, a commercial line, is more expensive. I’ve only used it to get back from Käsmu, which is a further stop. It cost €9 one-way (October 2023). I also don’t think it’s possible to use the Smartcard on this bus. Make sure it runs, as it’s advertised as a summer bus (even though I took it in October).

Getting back from Viru bog to Tallinn? Use the same bus lines in opposite direction.

Camping near Viru bog? Kalmeoja campsite, 300 metres from the trail, has space for up to six tents.

Käsmu

A beautiful 15-km hiking trail loops around the Käsmu peninsula, with 10 km of it running along the seaside. This trail offers stunning coastal views and traverses the largest boulder field — noteworthy in a country that used such a glacial erratic – or was it a puking hedgehog? – to promote its touristic merits. For those seeking a shorter walk, a 4.2 km trail introduces the natural and cultural heritage of the peninsula. Historically, Käsmu was home to a maritime school, earning it the moniker “captain’s village”.

Reaching Käsmu by public transport can be a challenge, as only two bus lines serve the village directly from Tallinn. Bus line 277, which travels to Võsu, departs Tallinn in the morning and returns in the evening. This bus is commercially operated, making it more expensive than typical countryside buses; we paid 9 euros per person for a one-way trip (October 2023). Ensure it runs, as it’s advertised as a summer bus (even though I took it in October). Bus 18V, heading to Aseri, passes through Käsmu in the afternoon (or in the morning if you’re Tallinn-bound). I haven’t used the latter, so let me know about your experiences in the comments. There are other options that require a change in Rakvere.

It’s perfectly possible to make a day trip using bus 277, leaving Tallinn in the morning and returning in the evening. It should give you enough time to hike the 15-km loop. However, it might be worth considering an overnight stay. Käsmu has a few good accommodation options (including this swanky beach house). Although camping in Käsmu is impossible, there is an RMK campsite (and a supermarket!) in Võsu. A few daily buses run between Käsmu and Võsu. Käsmu itself has a small village shop where you can also get coffee and fast food – lifesavers if, like us, you choose to hike in the winter.

Vasarista juga – Võsu hike

The Baltic Forest Trail goes through Lahemaa, but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it. Except for a few stretches through bogs and forests, the trail mostly sticks to car roads. The Lahemaa section of RMK’s hiking route between Ikla and Oandu is much better and makes for a long but rewarding day hike. You’ll walk through boundless pine forests and along trickling rivers, passing small waterfalls and a lovely free campsite by the water (Nõmmeveski). This means this hike could also work as an overnighter.

Tackling this by public transport, you have two options – both of which require adding an approach route. Be aware that on weekdays the schedule works out much better than during weekends.

Option 1: Start from Ulliallika bus stop (see instructions above, Viru bog — all the buses that stop at Viru raba also stop at Ulliallika). Walk to Kalmeoja campsite and pick up the RMK route from there. Only trained hikers should attempt this option, preferably on a long summer day – you’ll easily rake up 28-30 km.

Option 2: Same bus, but stay on it a few stops longer. Get off at Kotka, then follow the (car) road that runs south along the Valgejõgi river. After about 5 km, when you cross the bridge over the Vasaristi, join the RMK route. I didn’t record my hikes yet when I attempted this route, but I’d say it’s around 23-25 km.

Getting back: Bus 157 leaves Võsu twice daily on weekdays, in the early morning and the evening. If you’re doing this hike as a day trip, only the evening bus (19:35) works. Commercially-exploited bus 277 also runs between Võsu and Tallinn – presumably only in the summer, although I’ve once taken it in October.

Purekkari Cape

Purekkari Cape is less of a hike and more of a prime camping destination. It boasts a crescent-shaped beach, rocks that lead to the northernmost point of mainland Estonia, and stunning orange sunsets. It’s the perfect spot for a sunny weekend getaway, although in summer you’re unlikely to be the only one with such ideas.

The nearest bus stop is in Pärispea—just take bus 151A or 153 from Tallinn. From there, it’s a short 2 km walk to the campsite, but you can easily extend your adventure with a local loop, perhaps towards Pärispea beach.

Aegviidu

Located 65 kilometres from Tallinn, Aegviidu has several options for hiking. You can explore the Sõõriksoo nature trail, which starts right next to the train station and loops through pine forest and peat bogs. Not enough? Hike through the forests towards Nelijärv, following a string of lakes. Pick your favourite for a refreshing swim. We did so in Nikerjärv, which has a small beach, changing cabin and toilet. End your day with a beer at Nelijärve Holiday Center. You can also take the train back to Tallinn from Nelijärve if you don’t feel like walking back to Aegviidu.

How to get to Aegviidu by public transport?

Very easy. Trains from Balti Jaam roughly every hour. Check Elron for timetables. A one-way ticket costs €3,49 in advance, or €4,10 on the train (June 2024).

Accommodation in Aegviidu

The RMK campsite near Nikerjärv allows up to 15 tents. Those without a tent can also stay cheaply in Nelijärve Holiday Center. We’ve stayed in this hotel before – it’s simple but comfortable and excellent value for money. A stay also allows for hiking outside of the camping season.

Viimsi

Just out of Tallinn, Viimsi is connected to the city’s public transport network. This makes it a good option for those time-strapped travellers who want to soak up some nature. On the east side of Viimsi lies the Tädu nature study trail, which runs for 3,1 kilometre through a spruce forest dotted with rocks and erratic boulders. There are so many rocks that some trees have started growing on them, the most famous of which, Tädu Kuusk (Tädu spruce), stood tall on a rock for more than 130 years until a storm tore it down in December 2011. We extended our exploration by hiking from the centre of Viimsi, which took us through neighbourhoods of newly built compounds, meadows and forests.

How to get to Viimsi by public transport?

Very easy. Bus 1 takes you from Viru keskus, near Tallinn’s old town, to the centre of Viimsi. This is by far the most frequent bus to Viimsi (multiple times per hour). Get off here at Viimsi keskus if you want to hike to Tädu nature study trail (the scenic route is 7,1 km). Or jump on bus V2 and get off at stop Tädu kuusk.

Bus 115 takes you all the way from Tallinn (Balti Jaam/Mere Puiestee/Hobujaama) to Tädu kuusk. This is the most direct route, but less frequent (roughly every two hours).

Camping in Viimsi

There is a campfire site, but no camping facilities. Viimsi does have a hostel and a few other accommodation options.

Waterfalls Jägela / Keila

Estonia’s nature is very human-sized. There are no imposing canyons or breathtaking mountains here. Which is great, I like the intimacy of the landscape. It made it all the more fascinating when Anete told me about this “Niagara-sized” Jägela waterfall. Turns out she kind of misjudged the size of the actual Niagara waterfalls, but then again, she also thought that Lake Peipus was the biggest in the world (it’s number 41). This doesn’t take anything away from the experience of visiting Jägela, the widest waterfall in the country. The slightly smaller Keila waterfall is a great alternative. Both Jägela and Keila also look great in winter, when they freeze over and form icefalls.

How to get to Jägela waterfall by public transport?

Bus 154 runs from Balti Jaam (with stops at Vabaduse Väljak, Kivisilla, Keskturg and Bussijaam) to Leisi. Or take bus 152A to Loksa or bus 158 to Kuusalu. Get off at Koogi kauplus. A one-way bus ride costs €2,90 if you buy it with cash from the driver, €2,18 if you use credit from a Smartcard (July 2024). A 15-minute walk takes you to Jägala waterfall. The shop next to the bus stop sells all the essentials for a picnic. Neither of these buses are going super often, but it shouldn’t be a problem to get there with a bit of planning. Alternatively, lots more buses pass Jõelähtme – which requires a longer walk, but might give you more flexibility.

How to get to Keila waterfall by public transport?

Keila waterfall is actually in Keila-Joa, not in Keila itself. Buses 108/108A  (only on Friday and Saturday evenings)/126/127/127A/128/128A all take you directly from Balti Jaam (with a stop at Viru and Vabaduse Väljak) to Keila-Joa.  A one-way bus ride costs €2,90 if you buy it with cash from the driver, €2,18 if you use credit from a Smartcard (July 2024). Alternatively, take a bus or train to Keila and change to bus 110 for Keila-Joa.

Camping near Keila

There are no RMK camping spots near Jägela waterfall. A popular camping site at the seaside, RMK Meremõisa, is located 3 km from Keila waterfall and can host up to 50 tents. The walk between the waterfall and the campsite is pretty.

Pakri Peninsula

This peninsula features beaches, forests, meadows (in summer filled with wildflowers), old military bunkers, cliffs so impressive they once marked the old Estonian kroon bills, and the tallest lighthouse in the country. On top of all of that, it’s one of the easiest day trips from Tallinn with public transportation. Plenty of road-trippers will drive up to the lighthouse and the adjacent café in summer. But they don’t venture much further, so most trails are still pretty empty. Come in winter to marvel at icefalls.

How to get to Pakri Peninsula by public transport?

Super easy. Simply take a train from Balti Jaam to Paldiski – once a Soviet naval base, still an important port where you can take a boat to Sweden. The ticket costs €3,90 (online) or €4,10 (station or train). You can follow the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route from Paldiski, which coincides with the Pakri Peninsula Hiking Trail. Rather than retracing your steps from the lighthouse, you can continue on the east side of the peninsula and return by train from Põllküla or Laoküla (both €3,90/4,10). Vice versa is an option, too, but I’d recommend starting early from Paldiski to get the cliffs to yourself. (Prices last checked in November 2024.)

Camping on Pakri Peninsula?

RMK Leetse – five campsites that line the more beachy east side of the peninsula. Be aware that these are very popular in summer. When we passed, all the sites were taken (by car drivers, of course). Arrive early if you want to camp.

There is also a guesthouse next to the lighthouse. It looks like a fantastic place to stay, but we haven’t had the privilege.

Marimetsa Nature Reserve

Compared to the famous bogs of Lahemaa National Park, Marimetsa Nature Reserve is a bit more low-key. A 4.5-km one-way trail takes you to a viewing tower, initially through spruce forests and eventually through a nice variety of fens, raised bogs and transitional mires. In other words, this is the archetypical Estonian bog experience – including the chance to swim in a bog lake. A first for me!

How to get to Marimetsa Nature Reserve by public transport?

From the Tallinn bus station, take a bus heading for Haapsalu and get off in Risti. From there, walk to the information board at the start of the hike (4km). Out and back, this would be a nice 17-km day hike.

If you time it well, you can also take a bus from Risti, either 321 (to Pärnu) or L32 (to the port of Virtsu) and get off at Rõuma, decreasing the approach route significantly. However, as buses are sparse, we didn’t bother.

Alternatively, after finishing the Marimetsa trail, you can continue your hike until Kullamaa, where multiple Tallinn-bound buses pass daily. You might want to book your spot ahead, especially during summer or at weekends. As these buses are coming from Kuressaare, they’re booked out in popular times.

Camping near Marimetsa Nature Reserve

We didn’t camp but decided to spend a night in the smallest of the cute garden cabins of Paepealse Guesthouse. A basic but comfortable stay – the garden has plenty of options for rest and relaxation. The friendly owner cooked up a delicious breakfast for us and served it on the terrace.

Metsanurme

Metsanurme – Üksnurme history and nature and study trail loops through fir and deciduous forest and along rivers, over dusty countryside roads and wooden bridges spanning streams, past archaeological sites and a crumbling manor house. Lots of variety, in short, for a walk that clocks in at just under ten kilometres.

How to get to Metsanurme by public transport?

Easy peasy. Twelve direct trains a day leave Tallinn for Rapla or Türi (eleven on weekend days). Less than half an hour later, you’ll reach Kasemetsa (which means birch forest). From the train station of Kasemetsa – which houses a fast-food shack – it’s a gentle 1.5-km walk to the start of the hike near the town’s communal volleyball field.

Camping in Metsanurme

Plenty of space next to Keila river, with an outdoor fireplace, a shelter with table and benches and a dry toilet.

Tabasalu

West of Tallinn, slowly crumbling limestone cliffs extend along Kakumäe Bay. You can hike both on top of the cliffs as well as on the beaches below them – although you should be aware of occasional rockfalls. From Tabasalu starts a 3.5-km hiking loop. Another option, for those looking to get more kilometres in their legs, would be to walk the stretch of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route that leads from Tabasalu all the way to the port of Tallinn, 25 km in total. Or, in the other direction, 20 km to Vääna-Jõesuu.

How to get to Tabasalu by public transport?

One option would be to take city bus number 4 to Tiskre, get off at the last stop (Tiskre) and walk from there. This is especially useful if you have a Tallinn bus pass, as you’ll not have to pay extra.

Alternatively, plenty of buses head towards Tabasalu. From Balti Jaam number, take 108, 108A (to Keila-Joa), 109 (to Rõõmu), 118, 118A (loop around Tallinn), 122, 123 (Vääna-Jõesuu), 126 (Lohusalu), 127, 127A, 128A (Klooga), 128 (Kloogaranna), 129 or 129A (Suurupi). All these pass Vabaduse Väljak, so you could get on there as well. On Vabaduse Väljak, you can also take 180E to Rannamõisa. If you’re in Mustamäe, 124 works. Check Google Maps to figure out which of these options makes the sense at the time you’re planning to travel.

A one-way bus ride costs €2 if you buy it with cash from the driver, €1,50 if you use credit from a Smartcard (July 2024). Get off at stops Rannamõisa, Mere tee, Tabasalu or Kallaste. To get back, take one of the same lines in the opposite directions.

Camping in Tabasalu

Not really an option. Tallinn has a few campsites – this one and this one look promising.

Paunküla hills

For those who can’t make it to Karula National Park, Paunküla provides a similar experience in a smaller area. With scenic lakes and bog pools stretching out between pine-forested eskers, the landscape is just as varied. The terrain is hilly – although, like everywhere in Estonia, you won’t need any mountaineering gear. Trails of different lengths can be combined into a big hike.

How to get to Paunküla by public transport?

Easy, but few daily buses. Buses 139 and 140 run from Estonia (Solaris mall) to Ardu, passing Rõõsa. From that bus stop, it’s only 200 metres to the trailhead. For example, you could take bus 140 at 8:30 in the morning (or 6:15 for the hardcore!) and arrive about an hour later.  If you’re camping, you could also consider one of the afternoon buses.

For the return journey, the most convenient bus, again number 140, reaches Rõõsa at 17:04 (16:54 in weekends) and arrives at Estonia stop an hour later. Number 139 passes Rõõsa at 18:53 (weekdays only) and arrives in Tallinn at 20:06, though the final stop is not Estonia but Balti Jaam. For those camping, there are also a few morning buses back.

It’s very much worthwhile to come early – i.e. by bus! When we arrived on the morning bus, we had the place to ourselves. When we left, the car park had filled up completely.

A one-way bus ride costs €3,80 if you buy it with cash from the driver, €2,85 if you use credit from a Smartcard (July 2024).

Camping in Paunküla

RMK Paunküla campfire site offers space for ten tents. Facilities include an open firepit, a few covered tables and a dry toilet.

Laulasmaa

This one is short and sweet, an ideal mini adventure for the colder times. We walked this trail in the autumn, to celebrate Anete’s book deal.

The Laulasmaa-Lohusalu hiking trail begins and ends at the LaSpa parking lot. Officially, it’s around 7 km, even though we logged 9 km on our watches. Following blue and yellow markers, the route mostly hugs the shoreline, passing through dunes dotted with rosehip, past large boulders, through pine forests and over sandy beaches – Laulasmaa got its name from the singing sand here. Historically, the area was home to a summer resort for composers. At present, the renowned Arvo Pärt resides in Laulasmaa. The trail passes the Arvo Pärt Centre, which is well worth a visit – even if just for a stop at the café. There are also two other cafés in the villages.

How to get to Laulasmaa by public transport?

Buses 126, 127, 127A, 128, and 128A connect Tallinn and Laulasmaa directly. Alternatively, take a bus or train to Keila and jump on bus 110.

Camping in Laulasmaa

The closest campsite is Meremõisa, by Lohusalu bay – a tiny detour from the hike.

In Tallinn

Pääsküla

Even closer to Tallinn’s old town than Viimsi, Pääsküla bog presents the ultimate nature opportunity for those who really don’t have time to get out of the city. This is a miniature version of the bog scenery you can find in Lahemaa and Soomaa, including two hiking loops, wooden board walks and an observation tower that provides a terrific view over the landscape. It’s hard to believe you’re so close to the city.

How to get to Pääsküla by public transport?

Take bus 5 from Viru (roughly every 10 minutes, less often during weekends), and get off at Kauge. From the bus stop, it’s a 15-minute walk to the trailhead. Alternatively, take a bus (23 and 36, amongst others) or train to Nõmme or Hiiu. These stops are a bit farther from the trails, but promise more options to grab a drink or a meal before or after your hike. Sõõrikukohvik, for example, is an affordable place for coffee, sweets, or lunch. Legendary Hiiu Pubi has drinks and meals.

Camping in Pääsküla

There is no RMK camping spot in Pääsküla, but Tallinn has accommodation options for every budget.

Harku mets (Harku forest)

Another great option for hikers with little time to explore outside of Tallinn. On the edge of the city stretches out a nature area so vast that you can easily make a 15-km loop through pine forests, dunes and mires. Harku forest warrants a visit in any season. The forests offer a cool shaded place in summer with plenty of blueberry picking opportunities. In autumn, the ferns give the landscape a lovely brown colour, and winter enthusiasts can explore the cross-country ski tracks during the coldest months.

Getting to Harku mets by public transportation

From Viru or Vabaduse Väljak bus stop, take bus number 20 or 20A and get off at Nõva, Õitse or Sireli.

Camping near Harku mets

Not really an option. Tallinn has a few campsites – this one and this one look promising.

Paljassaare

A peninsula north of Tallinn, Paljassaare is a labyrinth of trails over rocky coasts, through reed-filled wetlands and past crumbling Soviet bunkers. It’s also the best bet for amateur birders to spot hundreds of species of birds from watch towers (as well as invasive American minks). The pier next to handkerchief-sized beach Pikakari offers a great skyline view of Tallinn.

How to get to Paljassaare by public transport?

Bus 59 runs at least twice every hour from Balti Jaam to Pikakari. Loop around the peninsula back to your starting point or come out on the other side. In Kopli, you can take bus 73 to the city centre. Or walk a bit further to the tram stops — both tram 1 and 2 (out of service at the time of writing) take you back to Balti Jaam.

Aegna

Aegna, a peaceful handkerchief-sized island in Tallinn Bay, represents a miniature version of the country: rocky coasts, sandy beaches, coniferous and deciduous forests, a gathering of glacial erratics, foxes frolicking in the heath and a free camping spot! In summer, a pop-up café opens next to the port.

How to get to Aegna by public transport?

From May to September, Sunlines runs a twice or thrice-daily ferry service from Tallinn’s Linnahall (easily accessible by bus or tram) to Aegna. Boats go every day in May, June, July and August, except for Tuesdays; only in weekends in September. It takes about half an hour and costs €5 for the journey to Aegna, €3 for the return to Tallinn (July 2024). This makes it possible to visit the island on a day trip or to stay overnight.

Camping on Aegna

There’s a delightful free campsite on the southeast side of the island, about 2 km from the port. The pitches, sheltered by dunes, have access to dry toilets and sheltered picknick tables. Alternatively, big groups can also stay in Aegna Beach House.

Pirita River Valley Landscape Conservation Area

Or, in Estonian, Pirita jõeoru maastikukaitseala. This is our home nature when we spend time in Tallinn, a range of pine forests and grasslands on both banks of the river Pirita. Numerous paths cross this hilly area, offering endless opportunities for hiking, picnicking and wildflower picking in summer, and skiing in winter. You can rent sups or rowboats at the port in the warmer months, skis from Pirita Sports Centre when snow covers the soil. There is also a small beach and a swimming platform near the sports centre, although taking a plunge is possible anywhere along the lazy river.

How to get to Pirita by public transport?

It’s a large area, so it depends on where you want to go. Bus 1 goes from the city centre to Viimsi, get off at Rummu (for the left bank or for Pirita Sports Centre) or Pirita (for the right bank). Or take bus 5, my favourite Tallinn line, if you want to explore further inland. Get off at Kose, Nurmiku tee or Metsakooli tee.

From Pärnu

Soomaa National Park

Soomaa, or the land of bogs, lies between Pärnu and Viljandi. It’s a wilderness brimming with fauna and flora. During the fifth season, when the snow melts, large parts of Soomaa get flooded and become only accessible by canoe. Although most websites and people will tell you that you need a car to get to Soomaa, we’ve visited Riisa bog by public transport. It’s challenging, sure, but also highly rewarding. When we arrived by bus, roe deer jumped over the roads in front of us, running through the foggy fields as the sun rose. This is one of the most popular trails in the country, but, because the bus arrived so early, we had this picturesque bog to ourselves for hours until the first cars arrived. A magical wild place.

How to get to Soomaa by public transport?

Challenging, but possible.

Bus 99 leaves Pärnu’s bus station at 6:05. Yes, that’s early enough the see the drunks waggle home from the Bermuda triangle of Pärnu, around the nightclubs at the end of Rüütli street. The bus reaches Jõesuu at 6:43, which is where you’ll get off the bus. It then continues to Aesoo and the same bus returns to Jõesuu at 7:29, making the last stretch to Riisa, arriving at 7:39. At the time we made the visit, it was not possible to stay on the bus, but the friendly driver didn’t make us pay again for the second part (although, technically, it was a new ride). Other times, the driver allowed us to stay on the bus. Jõesuu has a shop, a small café and even a cider factory, but none of those was open that early, so we simply walked around the village to stay warm.

In the afternoon, bus 99 leaves Pärnu at 14:30, arriving at Riisa at 15:20 (without the pause in Jõesuu). This option is only available to campers, as there are no later buses to take back to Pärnu.

The return journey starts at 15:20 from Riisa, arriving at 15:30 in Jõesuu. Whilst the bus makes it loop to Aesoo again, you have just enough time to eat a portion of fries or a burger in the village café. Called Jõesuu KülaKohvik, literally: village café. Estonians don’t beat around the bush – a cheese or flower shop is usually called Cheese Shop or Flowers here. Get lost with your creative names. The bus to Pärnu leaves from Jõesuu at 16:21.

A one-way ride costs €1,5 with transport card, €2 if you pay in the bus (July 2024).

I believe it’s also possible to visit other parts of Soomaa by public transport, for example from Viljandi via Kõpu. I will update this post if we ever try that.

Camping in Soomaa

Meiekosa campsite, located roughly 4 kilometres from Riisa bog, has a forest hut for three and enough space for five tents. Alternatively, Villa River Rose offers decently priced rooms with breakfast in Jõesuu. We’ve stayed here before and it’s delightful, especially the food. Upon request, the owner also cooks dinner.

Estonia’s Southwest coast

When we lived in Pärnu, we made a hike in episodes from the city towards the Latvian border. We followed the coastline, southwards. Alternatively, you can also follow the section of the Baltic Coastal Trail that runs through Pärnumaa. These sparsely populated areas, an endless string of spruce forests, sleepy fishermen’s villages and summer houses along the old Riga highway, make for great hiking. If you stay in Pärnu, it’s very easy to jump on a bus headed for Ikla, get off anywhere, hike for a couple of hours, and get back on the same bus, this time northbound. One option would be to get off in Häädemeeste, which has a few facilities to stock up or fill your belly, and hike towards a campsite more southwards. See camping for inspiration. Between Uulu and Häädemeeste, the Baltic Coastal Trail heads inland through boundless pine forests.

How to get to Estonia’s Southwest coast by public transport?

Bus 74 goes from Pärnu to Ikla, on the border with Latvia, and follows the coastline. Feel free to get off anywhere, you can’t go wrong. Buses go around 10 times a day. It takes roughly 45 minutes to reach Häädemeeste. The first part of the 26-km long inland stretch between Uulu and Häädemeeste goes over a countryside road, you can skip it by taking bus 72 or 78 (from Pärnu or Uulu) to Kotkapesa (literally, Eagle nest). A one-way ride costs €1,5 with transport card, €2 if you pay in the bus (July 2024).

Camping on Estonia’s Southwest coast

Lemme and Krabi are two extensive RMK camping sites that stretch for hundreds of metres along the coast. Due to their size and popularity, there is no free firewood available. Priivitsa, in Kabli, is much smaller and quieter, with space for five tents.

[Read more about our hiking adventures on the coastline. Part one / Part two]

Kilingi-Nõmme

A sleepy town near the Latvian border, Kilingi-Nõmme has a direct bus line to Pärnu and a hiking trail in close proximity to the bus station. The Kilingi-Nõmme forest trail goes through – you guessed it – pine forests on sand dunes. Ideal for berry-picking in the summer, mushrooming in autumn or snow hiking in winter. Kilingi-Nõmme is your typical Estonian small town, which means it has everything you need as a hiker: a shop to stock up and two cafés to warm with a coffee/cool down with a beer after your hike.

How to get to Kilingi-Nõmme by public transport?

Easy, but irregular. Local buses 82/84/85/86 all go directly from Pärnu to Kilingi-Nõmme. Some buses from Pärnu to other Estonian cities also stop in Kilingi-Nõmme – for example 145 (to Tartu), 149 (from Kuressaare to Tartu), 246 (to Tartu), 267 (to Karksi-Nuia), 293 (to Valga), 371 or 372 (both to Viljandi) – but are routinely more expensive. A one-way ride on the local bus costs €1,5 with transport card, €2 if you pay in the bus (July 2024).

Camping in Kilingi-Nõmme

Kilingi-Nõmme has both a forest hut (which can be rented from RMK), a camping area for up to three tents. A little outside of town, there was also a camping with facilities and a chance to stay in a cabin.

From Tartu

Pühajärv

Aah, South Estonia! These rolling hills are the ‘Alps of the Baltics’. Remember this comes from a nation whose citizens compare Jägala waterfall to Niagara. Otepää is the winter capital of Estonia. Even in summer, you can see skiers in silly fluorescent lycra practice on skis with rollerskate wheels. Near Otepää lies Pühajärv, a postcard of a ‘holy lake’ with five islands in the middle of it. The surroundings lend themselves well to hiking. A whole lap around the lake measures 14 kilometres.

How to get to Pühajärv by public transport?

GoBus and Hansa run regular bus services from the bus station in Tartu to Otepää. Depending on the route, the journey can take as little as 45 minutes or as long as 1 hour 15 minutes. We walked from Otepää to Pühajärve, the village at the trailhead – a pleasant 2,5-km stroll. Tamme Äri doubles as a bar/café and a small village shop. It’s the perfect place to stock up before you head into nature.

Camping around Pühajärv

Four RMK campsites dot the lake. Kiigimäe is the biggest and can host up to 30 tents. Kooliranna has space for ten tents. We stayed at Angunina 1, which doesn’t have a page on RMK’s website. There is space for two tents. A little further lies Angunina 2. Alternatively, there is plenty of accommodation for every budget in and around Otepää, including this camping not too far from the lake.

Rõuge

A quaint village amidst a string of lakes, Rõuge is another place of superlatives. Suurjärv, the ‘big lake’ at its feet, is the deepest in the country. There are seven lakes in total, all different in size and shape. We were swimming in the last one, Kährila järv, when a busload of tourists walked by. They looked at us as part of the attraction. Some picked up their cameras, a few raised their hands in greeting. They almost ran away with our underwear. Who wouldn’t want that as a souvenir? We found the reason for this tourist activity a while further. At the end of a 10-kilometre long hiking trail through this primaeval valley lies Hinni canyon, the only of its kind in Estonia. A small wonder of nature.

How to get to Rõuge by public transport?

This route requires a change in Võru, a sleepy provincial city by the lakeside. More than ten buses make the journey from Tartu to Võru each day, ran by different companies. The journey usually takes around 1h15, a standard ticket cost €6 or €6,5 (August 2024). GoBus has regular buses from Võru to Rõuge, a journey which takes around 25 minutes.

Camping in Rõuge

We recommend staying in Rõuge for the night rather than trying to cram four bus rides into a single day. The closest RMK campsite is, alas, 9 kilometres away in Haanja. Luckily, Rõuge offers plenty of accommodation options. We stayed in Guesthouse Suurjärve — unfortunately, prices have since seemingly skyrocketed. Back then, you could also pitch your tent for a small fee. I’m not sure that option still exists – it’s not mentioned on the website – but you always try and reach out. Let us know in the comments.

Elva river primeval valley hike

This is one of Estonia’s great day hikes, covering 15.5 km – a few more if you start from the train station. We’ve experienced it in both summer and winter. In summer, the trail winds past a series of lakes perfect for swimming. In winter, you’ll share some paths with skiers – parts of the hike coincide with the route of the Tartu Skiing Marathon. The river is lined with sandstone cliffs, and an observation tower offers stunning views – stretching endlessly over a sea of trees.

How to get to Elva by public transport?

Technically, you could do this hike as a (long!) day trip from Tallinn, especially in summer. It would require taking the first train to Elva and catching the last one back. A more convenient option is starting from Tartu. While there are only four daily trains between Tartu and Elva in each direction, frequent bus services fill the gaps.

Camping in Elva

Plenty of options, with five official RMK campsites available. Our favourite is Ürgoru lõkkekoht. It’s beautifully situated near the river, with stunning views over the valley, and features a long wooden staircase leading down to the river. Best of all, it’s only accessible by foot — car campers must walk the last few hundred metres, which, in our experience, is usually enough to deter them. While Lake Umbjärv campfire site is a great spot with easy access to the lake, the facilities (especially the dry toilet) were in a state of disrepair during our last visit.

Sleeping in Tartu

All three hikes pair perfectly with a visit to Tartu, Estonia’s second-largest city. It’s an ideal place to rest sore muscles, with accommodation options to suit every budget. Here are a few places we’ve stayed:

• Downtown Hostel. Less a hostel and more like a student dorm with rooms for rent. While it may lack the charm of other options, it’s perfectly adequate for budget travellers—especially if you don’t plan to spend much time in your room. We used it as a convenient crash pad after a wedding in town.
• Lydia. Named after Lydia Koidula, one of Estonia’s most revered poets, this hotel boasts an excellent location near Town Hall Square, the university, and Rüütli Street with its lively bars and restaurants. From the breakfast room, you can watch students going about their day. The hotel also features a small spa and an outstanding breakfast buffet.
• V Spa. For those wanting to treat themselves after a long hike, V Spa is the place to be. If features an expansive spa (complete with saunas overlooking the street), and a highly praised restaurant (Joyce), Book at the right timing, it’s surprisingly affordable. Located near the bus station, it’s perfect if you’re arriving after a tiring hike, with little walking left to do!

From Valga

Karula National Park

Estonia’s smallest national park definitely warrants a visit. Covering 123 km² in the south of the country, Karula is a patchwork of wildflower-dotted hills, pine and birch forests, small patches of bog and lots of lakes that slowly turn into swamps, offering a home to moose, deer, wild boars, lynxes, wolfs and the countries largest population of black storks, as elusive as they’re beautiful. RMK’s long hiking trail loops for 36 kilometres through the park’s most picturesque landscapes. Shorter hikes are available as well. Discover below more about our two-day visit to Karula.

Walking the long hiking trail of Karula National Park, Estonia

How to get to Karula National Park by public transport?

Karula National Park is about as far as you can get from Tallinn without crossing a border. The area is remote and rural, and public transport access is patchy at best. With a bit of patience, however, everything is possible.

You’ll probably want to travel to Valga first, a border town in the south of Estonia with train and/or bus connections to Tallinn, Pärnu (direct or via Viljandi) and Tartu. Buses headed for (parts of) the national park leave Valga multiple times a day – although less often on weekends. We found it most useful to get off in Lüllemäe and get on the trail from there. On weekdays and Saturdays, you can take bus 18I, leaving Valga at 7:45; bus 18L, leaving Valga at 12:25; bus 31E, leaving Valga at 15:35 or bus 36, leaving Valga at 18:45. On Sundays, there are only three buses headed for Lüllemäe (8:00, 11:40 and 14:20).

From Võru, you can also get to Ähijärve, the official starting point of the loop (as well as this epic hike through Estonia). A daily bus leaves Võru on weekdays and Saturdays at 11:55, passing Ähijärve at 13:19.

Unless you’re an ultrarunner, walking the long hiking trail of Karula National Park will take multiple days. Reserve a minimum of two days, three if you want to take lots of breaks.

Camping in Karula National Park

There are ten campfire sites in Karula National Park. These are small areas with space for two to ten tents – although a few of them are solely for grilling and picnicking and don’t allow overnight stays. We stayed at the campfire site Veski, on the banks of Lake Ähijärv. There is also a more extensive campsite – Suuremäe, which has space for up to 50 tents – and a forest hut. All of the facilities are free to use. Wild camping elsewhere in the national park is not allowed, except on private land with the permission of the owner. For those seeking a touch of luxury, glamping is a great option, with two sites available in Ähijärve. Alternatively, you can opt for a cozy stay in a sauna house.

We sandwiched our exploration of Karula National Park between two nights in Valga, where we stayed in the comfortable, homely and affordable Helge Guest House, owned by a friendly lady who even offered to drive us to the bus station. Booking.com has a few other options as well.

Taagepera hiking trail

The Taagepera hiking trail is a 5.4 km loop in southern Estonia, running along the banks of the Õhne River and winding through mixed forests. A highlight of the hike is the old, overgrown manor burial site. To be honest, the hike alone may not be worth a long journey unless you’re also planning to enjoy the other nearby attraction. The Mulgi Experience Centre is a must-visit—our guide’s enthusiasm made learning about the Mulgi people, their history, food, and notable figures really engaging. Nearby, Wagenküll Spa provides rest and relaxation in a historic manor, which was the main reason for our visit.

How to get to Taagepera by public transport?

From Valga, take buses numbered 20 to Taagepera or Ala, or catch any of the buses running between Valga and Viljandi.

Camping in Taagepera?

Not too far from the manor house, Taagepera campsite offers space for up to five tents, with a nearby swimming platform giving access to the river. Though, let’s be honest, a stay at Wagenküll Spa is hard to resist!

Long-distance hiking routes

Multiple long-distance hiking trail zigzag through the country, follow the coastline or dip into the forests. It sounds like an amazing adventure to hike one of them fully and it features highly on our bucket list. For now, however, we have contented ourselves with walking a few sections of some of these trails, mostly as day trips from Tallinn.

State forest management organisation RMK has created four long-distance hiking trails that cross the whole of the country. Typically, these routes can be divided into day hikes that end at an RMK campsite. On top of that, the organisation Baltic Trails (a collaboration of tourism associations in Estonia, Latvia, and Latvia) has created two long-distance hiking trails that go through the Baltics.

Oandu-Aegviidu-Ikla hiking route

Oandu-Aegviidu-Ikla hiking route (370 km) starts in the north of Estonia, at the RMK’s Visitor Centre in Lahemaa National Park, and ends in Ikla, near the border with Latvia.

Peraküla-Aegviidu-Ähijärve hiking route

Peraküla-Aegviidu-Ähijärve hiking route (812 km), the longest of the four, starts in the northwest of Estonia and ends in Karula National Park. From Tallinn, these are all public transport-friendly day hikes:

• Padise – Vasalemma

Possibly my favourite of this short list, running through dark forests and passing the monastery in Padise, Rummu Quarry and the manor house of Vasalemma.

How? Bus 146 to Padise, train back from Vasalemma.

• Vasalemma – Keila

A whole day away from civilisation, ending in the warm Scottish pub of Keila.

How? Train to Vasalemma, train back from Keila.

• Keila – Metsanurme

Through fields and forests, following Keila River until Metsanurme.

How? Train to Keila, train back from Kasemetsa.

• Metsanurme – Tuhala

Again, lots of forests and a potential picnic break at the Saarte bog campfire site (with the bonus that cars can’t reach this place!). This hike ends in Tuhala, famous for its Witch’s well (although it’s quite a bit of a detour).

How? Train to Kasemetsa, bus 130 back from Tuhala.

• Tuhala – Kose-Uuemõisa

More forests and the beautiful freshwater springs of Saula. Kose-Uuemõisa is one of the few towns along the way with facilities for re-stocking.

How? Bus 130 to Tuhala, bus 138 back from Kose-Uuemõisa.

• Kose-Uuemõisa – Alavere

We hiked this section through deep snow, got into time trouble and had to divert our hiking route. Again, peaceful forests where you can feel alone in the world.

How? Bus 138 to Kose-Uuemõisa, bus 105 back from Alavere.

• Alavere – Aegviidu

Aegviidu is a hiking paradise, we’ve said that earlier. But this section is less popular than other parts of the surroundings. We didn’t come across a single soul all day — fair enough, it was winter!

How? For logistical reasons, we turned this one around – taking a train to Aegviidu and bus 105 back from Alavere.

Penijõe-Aegviidu-Kauksi hiking route

Penijõe-Aegviidu-Kauksi hiking route (613 km), opened in 2018 to celebrate the 100^th birthday of Estonia, starts in Matsalu National Park and ends on the shores of Lake Peipus.

Hiking route on Hiiumaa

Heltermaa-Ristna-Sarve (234 km) is the shortest of the RMK hikes. It loops around Hiiumaa, mostly over trails that are only reachable by foot. Hiiumaa has direct buses from Tallinn and the hiking trail conveniently starts and ends near the ferry terminal.

Fun fact: Hiiumaa is the only home of the European mink in Estonia, I wrote a story about it for The Guardian.

Baltic Coastal Trail

The Baltic Coastal Hiking Route (1419 km), part of the E9, follows the coastline of Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia. It starts on the Curonian Spit, at the border between Lithuania and Kaliningrad, and ends in Tallinn. The Estonian part of the route is 622 km long.

• Tabasalu – Vääna-Jõesuu

Starting at Tabasalu cliffs (which makes for an interesting short hike itself), we soon reached Tilgu port. The cozy-looking café was unfortunately closed for the season, so we enjoyed our sandwiches and coffee on the beach instead. The hike follows paved roads for a short stretch, but gets more interesting as it hugs the coastline all the way to Vääna-Jõesuu. The rocky shoreline is sometimes overgrown – no wonder the website calls it “one of the most complicated sections of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route, suitable only for experienced hikers” (a bit of an exaggeration, but still). Vääna-Jõesuu has two shops and a warm café right by the bus stop. Overall, one of the best day hikes near Tallinn.

How? Check the Tabasalu section to learn how to get to the short of hike. From Vääna-Jõesuu, take bus 108, 122, 123, 126, 128, 128A or 137 back to Tallinn. Bus 124 goes to Mustamäe.

• Vääna-Jõesuu – Keila-Joa

This 11.5 km mini stretch, which we tackled on New Year’s Eve, follows the coast almost entirely until the trail turns inland along the Keila River. The highlight is the Keila-Joa waterfall, a lovely surprise to end the hike.

How? Bus 108, 122, 123, 126, 128 or 128A to Vääna-Jõesuu, bus 108, 108A, 126, 127, 127A, 128, 128A back from Keila-Jõa.

• Keila-Joa – Laulasmaa

Starting from the Keila-Joa waterfall, which bathed in the rising winter sun when we began, the trail leads first through pine forests, passing the Meremõisa campsite (hurray for toilet opportunities!), follows the coast for a while and ends in Laulasmaa. Laulasmaa offers several super markets and two cafés.

How? Bus 108, 108A, 126, 127, 127A, 128 or 128A to Keila-Joa, bus 126, 127, 127A, 128 or 128A back from Laulasmaa.

Camping? Meremõisa is a large RMK campsite right by the sea.

• Laulasmaa – Kersalu

This section follows the coast for a while before shifting to safe bicycle and pedestrian paths, leading to one of my favourite beaches near Tallinn — Kloogaranna, with its stunning dunes. After that, things got a bit complicated as we navigated iced-over beaches, walked passed ice waterfalls and trees coated in ice. This slowed us down considerably. We intended to go further, but as darkness fell (we were hiking one of the shortest days of the year), we ended our hike a the bus stop in Kersalu. In summer, you could easily continue beyond that point.

How? Bus 126, 127, 127A, 128, or 128A to Laulasmaa directly, bus 145 back to Tallinn, roughly once an hour (less during weekends). Kloogaranna, halfway the hike, has a few daily train connections with Tallinn.

Camping? If you continue a bit further from Kersalu, you’ll reach the Vanaaseme fireplace. While it’s not an official RMK site, you might be able to pitch a tent here. Even farther along is the Leetse campsite, a beautiful spot by the sea. I think it would be fantastic to stay in Kloogaranna for a day or two, soaking in the sun and sand. As I said, it’s one of my favourite beaches near Tallinn. But alas, there is no campsite and the only available accommodation is quite pricey. It’s stunning, though, so I suppose we’ll just have to save up for that getaway!

• Kersalu – Paldiski

This hike is nearly identical to the one described under the Pakri Peninsula segment, except we started in reverse from the Kersalu bus stop rather than one of the train station. Regardless of the season, it remains a fantastic day hike.

How? Bus 145 to Kersalu, train back from Paldiski.

Camping on Pakri Peninsula? RMK Leetse – five campsites that line the more beachy east side of the peninsula. Be aware that these are very popular in summer. There is also a guesthouse next to the lighthouse. It looks like a fantastic place to stay, but we haven’t had the privilege.

• Padise – Paldiski

Another hike we reversed for logistical reasons. Between Paldiski and Vihterpalu, the Baltic Coastal Hiking Trail veers away from the coast — as wetlands make some areas impassable. Highlights of this segment include the Padise Monastery, the church of Madise (where we were greeted by a cheerful local lady on a bicycle) and scenic coastal views towards Paldiski. The town itself has a few shops and cafés, perfect for warming up if you’re hiking in winter.

How? Bus 146 or 149 to Padise. Get off one stop early, in Kasepere, if you need coffee or pastries. Tammetaare bistro, by the gas station in Kasepere, has saved us multiple times during hikes. Recommended. Take the train back from Paldiski.

Camping in Padise? In the woods behind Padise Monastery lies Padise campfire site. Although technically not a campsite, you should be able to pitch a tent discreetly.

• Padise – Harju-Risti

Between Padise and Harju-Risti, the Baltic Coastal Hiking Trail winds over quiet countryside roads and forest paths, passing through a village that almost looks medieval. When we hiked this stretch in late March, the first signs of spring greeted us—storks and cranes, early flowers, and the sun-soaked village of Harju-Risti buzzing with life. Locals were chopping wood and enjoying the warm weather. Harju-Risti also has a handy village shop for after-hike beers or snacks.

How? Bus 146 or 149 to Padise. Get off one stop early, in Kasepere, if you need coffee or pastries. Tammetaare bistro, by the gas station in Kasepere, has saved us multiple times during hikes. Recommended. Bus 146 back to Tallinn.

• Harju-Risti – Vihterpalu

This 14,5 km stretch stays almost entirely in the forest. We didn’t see a soul, but we did spot a snake!

How? Bus 146 to Harju-Risti, bus 146 back from Vihterpalu.

Camping in Vihterpalu? Vihterpalu campfire site is 300 metres from the bus stop. Again, technically not a campsite but bivouacking for one shouldn’t pose a problem. As it’s not by the seaside, it’s usually likely to be less crowded than other campsites in the area.

• Vihterpalu – Nõva

Another beautiful route, following the coastline and featuring beaches with singing sand, forests, dunes and marshlands. Keep your eyes peeled for the abundant wildlife. Nõva has a small village shop with an adjoining café, but check the opening hours.

How? Bus 146 to Vihterpalu, bus 146 back from Nõva (Laimi). As Nõva is part of Läänemaa, there are also buses (14 and 15) to the county capital Haapsalu.

Camping in Nõva? The area is classified as a recreation zone, which means there are plenty of campsites and campfire spots. On this hike, you’ll pass Keibu I, Keibu II and Lepaaugu campfire site. Nõva and its surroundings also have a hostel (more like a guesthouse) and a few holiday houses.

• Nõva – Peraküla (- Nõva)

Ah, Nõva! The beaches here are some of the whitest in Estonia, making Nõva recreation area a favourite summer spot. We turned this short stretch of the Baltic Coastal Hiking Trail into a two-day loop. Leaving Nõva, we headed south before turning towards Peraküla beach, passing an RMK visitor centre, a few hiking loops and lakes invite a plunge. We camped at the Peraküla campsite, nestled behind the dunes, and returned the next day along the beach heading north. From Rannaküla, it’s an easy walk over quiet streets back to Nõva. A perfect little microadventure.

How? Use bus 146 to get to Nõva and back again to Tallinn.

Camping in Peraküla? We slept at Peraküla campsite, but Nõva recreation area has plenty of options to camp or sleep indoors.

Baltic Forest Trail

The Baltic Forest Trail (2140 km), part of the E11, leads hikers through the boundless forests of Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia. It starts from the Polish-Lithuanian border and ends in Tallinn. The Estonian part of the route is 720 km long.

• Tallinn port – Viimsi

The last stage of the Baltic Forest Trail goes from Püünsi – on the peninsula of Viimsi – to the port of Tallinn. We turned this hike around, starting in Tallinn and ending in Viimsi. The route follows the seaside promenade and goes through the pine forests of Pirita. Don’t forget your swimming suit if you’re doing this in summer.

How? Start from Tallinn port, bus 1 from Viimsi will bring you back. If you continue to Püünsi, take bus V1 back to Viimsi and jump on bus 1 there, or take direct bus 114.

• Viimsi – Randvere

The hike continues along the coast until Rohuneeme, where it turns into the forest for a short detour. Be aware that when we did this segment, in November 2021, the signposting was non-existing in the forest. It might be improved now, but I would suggest using a gpx. Afterwards, you’ll walk on cycling paths next to a road. This is where our frustration with the Baltic Forest Trail started: the name promised a lot more than it could deliver.

How? Bus 1 to Viimsi, bus 38 back from Hansunõmme (or the combo V4 + bus 1/bus 8).

• Randvere – Jõelähtme

The highlight of this stretch was the passage through Maardu, a predominantly Russian-speaking industrial port town. It’s quite unique in this part of the country, as most Russian-speaking communities are to be found much further east. Beyond Maardu, the route mainly follows quiet but paved countryside roads.

How? Take bus 38 or 115 and get off at Hansuõmme (the combo bus 1/8 + V4A is also an option). From Jõelähtme, plenty of buses return to Tallinn, including 150, 151, 151A, 152, 153, 155, 156, 156A, 157A, 159, and 277.

• Jõelähtme – Kaberneeme

We did this hike in the depths of winter, trudging through knee-deep snow in places. The official distance is 21 km, but there is currently and indefinitely a detour of a few km extra in place. The trail passes the (frozen) Jägala waterfall and winds through the surrounding park, past what seemed like a derelict factory, then into forests. Along the way, you’ll come across a memorial for the Jews from Poland, Czechoslovakia, and Germany who were executed in a concentration camp here during WWII. The trail ends in Kaberneeme, where a tiny village shop, surprisingly open even in winter, was a welcome sight after the cold. In summer, there is a café as well.

How? Bus 150, 151, 151A, 152, 152A, 153, 154, 155, 156, 157, 157A, 158, 159, or 277 to Jõelähtme. Bus 158 takes you directly back to Tallinn – four times per weekday or three times per weekend day. On weekdays, there are three alternatives: 1/ bus J4 with a transfer to bus 151 in Jõelähtme or to bus 155 in Kuusalu (only on weekday mornings), 2/ bus J8 with a transfer to bus 159 in Metstoa (once daily, Monday through Thursday, in the afternoon), or 3/ bus J12 with a transfer to bus 151 in Kiiu (Friday afternoon).

Camping in Kaberneeme? Kaberneeme campfire sites: plenty of fireplaces and picnic tables by a lake. In the village, there is also a nice-looking holiday house that I wouldn’t mind staying at.

The joys of winter hiking in Estonia + our tips

• Kaberneeme – Saare

Pretty cool stretch that mostly follows the coastline of the Baltic Sea, over sandy beaches and duckboards through pine forests with lots of blueberries, lichen and the occasional erratic boulder. The middle part en the end goes over low-traffic roads.

How? Direct bus 158 to Kaaberneeme (or the options with transfers explained above), bus 158 back from Saare (or an earlier bus stop on that same road).

Camping in Kaberneeme? See above. During this hike, you’ll also pass by the Valkla Holiday Centre, located right on the beach in Valkla. Though it was closed when we hiked by in November, it looked like a great spot if you’re camping in summer and in need of more facilities than those that RMK campsites offer. You can also stay in one of the rooms or sauna houses, and there’s an onsite café (which, like the rest, wasn’t open during our visit).

• Saare- Tsitre

A short connecting trail of about 10 km that can be completed in 2 to 2.5 hours. It follows mostly wide forest paths and quiet roads through fields. The hike ends near a watch tower and Muuksi linnamägi, the remains of an ancient hill fortress.

How? Bus 158 to Saare, bus 154 back from Tsitre. Note that it’s a little bit of a puzzle to do this stretch as a day trip. It’s possible, especially in weekends, arriving in Saare at 13:34 and leaving Tsitre at 16:06.

Camping in Tsitre? Tsitre campsite is a spacious site near the beach. There is also a 1-km hiking loop, the Tsitre trail of trees.

• Loksa – Tsitre

For logistical reasons, we decided to hike this stretch in reverse. The highlight of the nearly 24 km route was passing through the bogs of the Juminda Peninsula and seeing the third-largest erratic boulder in Estonia. Aside from that, most of the hike was on paved roads. Loksa is the biggest city in the national park Lahemaa, although officially not part of it. Its shops offer a great opportunity to stock up during a longer hike. There is also a shack selling hamburgers, fries and cold beer.

How? Getting there is easy. Loksa is well-connected to Tallinn, with buses 151, 151A, 152, 152A, 153, 155, 156, 157, 157A all running between the two towns. From Tsitre, options are more limited. Bus 154 is your best bet for getting back to Tallinn.

Camping on the hike from Loksa to Tsitre? Tsitre, at the end of this hike, is the most convenient option. There is also Juminda campsite, but this is quite a detour from the trail. In the centre of Loksa, as far as we know, there is only one place to stay.

• Loksa – Viinistu

This 22-km section loops around Pärispea Peninsula, mainly following the coastline. In winter, we had to stick to paved road for too long, as heavy snowfall made the beach impassable. First smaller trails, then another paved road took us to Purekkari Cape, the northernmost point of mainland Estonia. This spot gets deservedly crowded with campers in summer, but we had the place to ourselves. The hike ends in Viinistu, home to an impressive private art museum (focussing on Estonian artists), a restaurant, and a hotel.

How? From Tallinn, take bus 151, 151A, 152, 152A, 153, 155, 156 or 157 to Loksa. Bus 151/151, 151A, 152/152, and 155/155 (yes, some of these have two bus lines, depending on the side of the street) will take you from Viinistu to Loksa. Depending on the time, you can either stay on the same bus or change to any of the buses ferrying between Loksa and Tallinn. It sounds more complicated than it is, I promise.

Camping on the hike from Loksa to Viinistu? Though busy in summer, Purekkari Cape is one of the loveliest spots to pitch a tent in Lahemaa. In the centre of Loksa, as far as we know, there is only one place to stay.

• Viinistu – Vihasoo (- Loksa)

We took this chance to visit the art museum in Viinistu. The hike itself mostly follows paved roads, but we found some fun detours to bird observation towers and a village swing. Instead of continuing to Vihasoo village, where public transport is limited, we turned back at the Vihasoo birdwatching tower. From there, we followed a wide dirt road to Loksa (around 3 km), grabbed some fries and beer, and caught the bus home.

How? Bus 151, 151A, 152, 153, 155 to Viinistu. You can take a bus 157 back from Vihasoo, but it goes only twice a day and not at weekends (18V is another useless option, with buses only in the very early morning). That’s why we decided to walk to Loksa instead and to take one of the many buses there.

Camping in Viinistu? Campsite Purekkari Cape is the closest option, although it’s probably more convenient to stay in Viinistu Art Hotel, a bunch of pretty rooms with sea views in a former factory. It’s quite affordable, especially outside of the summer.

• (Loksa -) Vihasoo – Käsmu

We followed the same wide forest trail from Loksa again. This time, in October, the Vihasoo birdwatching platform was flooded. After that, it was mostly quiet paved roads until the hike became much more scenic as we left the asphalt behind. On the Käsmu peninsula, dense pine forests, rugged coastlines, and scattered erratic boulders make for a stunning backdrop. Käsmu itself is a charming seafarer’s village, and surprisingly, its small shop/café was open even in winter.

How? Like before, we didn’t rely on the limited direct buses to Vihasoo and instead took one of the many options to Loksa (buses 151, 151A, 152, 152A, 153, 155, 156, or 157). Since Käsmu isn’t part of Harjumaa, public transport options are much scarcer. The privately run bus 277 is the best choice for day hikes, though it’s pricey (€9 one-way, October 2023). If you’re camping or staying in one of the village guesthouses, 18V might work too. Another option is to take a local bus to Rakvere and then catch an intercity bus back to Tallinn—great if you’re also keen to explore Rakvere.

Camping in Käsmu? The closest RMK campsite lies in Võsu, eight kilometres further along the Baltic Forest Trail. Both Käsmu and Võsu have plenty of highly-rated quality accommodation options. We particularly like the look of this stylish apartment (adults only!), this seafront summer house with sauna and this traditional villa with summery rooms, all in Käsmu, and this guesthouse in Võsu.

Resources

• RMK is the governmental organisation that manages the state forests. Its website is chock-full of information on hikes and camping spots. Although it does offer driving instructions, it usually doesn’t mention public transport. That’s for you to find out. A missed chance, if you ask us!
• Tpilet. A good source of information to look up bus routes and timetables all across Estonia. You can also use it to buy tickets on selected lines.
• Peatus. Another excellent route planner that covers the whole of Estonia.
• Elron. On the website of Estonia’s train company, you can find a journey planner and travel and ticket information.
• Google Maps. Works like a charm to look up bus and train times in Estonia and, especially, to make itineraries, which does not really work on Tpilet.
• Transport Tallinn. Up-to-date timetables for transport within Tallinn and Harjumaa. If you already have a green travel card, you can add money or (multi) day tickets.
• Visit Estonia’s fabulous English-language website collects enough inspiration for a lifetime of trips.

Disclaimer

Prices and timetables are subject to change. This post will be updated as we explore more of Estonia by public transport. We’ve personally tested all these trips.

Environmental issues

Estonia boasts that trees cover half of its surface, yet the country loses forests at alarming rates. Over the course of a decade, Estonia’s logging volumes tripled. Economists and politicians claim that there’s “more than enough” but ecologists warn that logging compromises a healthy and resilient ecosystem. Flagship species, such as the flying squirrel, are under increasing threat.

The country’s forests are set to become a net carbon source by 2030, according to predictions by the European Commission. Yet, Estonia keeps lobbying in Brussels for more flexibility to cut down even more forests. Lots of it is being used for biomass and wood pallets, an ironic backfiring of the EU’s renewable energy directive.

The best way to protect the forests of Estonia is by visiting them as a tourist. By raising the topic on social media, as well as in your travels. And by asking Estonians about the issue.