The joys of winter hiking in Estonia + our tips

On short and cold winter days, you’re forgiven for wanting to stay indoors all day, tucked under a blanket in front of Netflix. For us, however, winter is as beautiful a season as any for hiking in Estonia. From the first snowfall in December until now, barely a week has passed that we didn’t set out for a winter hike.

Winter hiking isn’t always a walk in the park. Unlike at summer outings, there are no picnics in photogenic spots, lazy breaks for reading or swimming in a lake. There are none of those rewards in winter.

Instead, we’ve sunk until our knees into deep snow. We’ve had to deal with freezing temperatures, wind chill, cold toes and icy trails. We’ve gnawed on frozen muesli bars and have tried to suck liquid from a solidly frozen water bottle. Tom’s beard has looked like Santa Claus’.

Then why did we go winter hiking so often? For the sound of snow crunching under our boots, the fumes our breaths made, the stillness in the air and the beauty of nature asleep. And most of all, for that wonderful feeling of being alive!

Here are nine more reasons why winter hiking is the bomb:

1/ The landscapes are out of this world

Frozen lakes and frosty rivers, pine trees covered with powder-sugar, a white blanket over the fields. Snow transforms a landscape into something entirely new and gorgeous.

2/ The golden hour is permanent

Because the sun rises so late, it’s much easier to witness how the sun smears an orange glow across the horizon. The golden hour stays for the entire day. All pictures come out heavily.

3/ You have the trails to yourself

Last weekend, we took a train to Aegviidu. We walked all day through the thick forests of Kõrvemaa and we saw no other hikers. Zero. Crowds are definitely thinner in wintertime.

The only trails we’ve had to share with others were the ones near parking. For most people, nature is a short loop around a car park. This knowledge gives you so much freedom to get away from everyone.

4/ You can really get distances done

Usually, we seldom rush to get from start to finish. Instead we take time for picnics, reading breaks and a plunge in every swimming hole we encounter.

Winter forces us to take a different approach. We’ve had to keep moving to stay warm. The one time we tried to have a proper picnic, we nearly froze our asses off. Since then, we hastily chew away a sandwich and a bar of granola and gulp down some coffee before hurrying on.

Despite the short days, we’ve regularly hiked 30+ kilometres this winter.

5/ You get a peek into the book of tracks

The presence of animals is so much more pronounced when a thick layer of snow covers the soil. We’ve seen the footprints of animals everywhere, big and small. Foxes, moose, rabbits, hundreds of birds. Despite (3), this gave us the sense we were never truly alone.

6/ Winter hiking makes you feel like a pioneer

Entering a virginal white track, untouched by human boots, and printing the first foot into it: this is how the world explorers must’ve felt.

7/ Estonia has no mountains

So no fancy gear, like crampons or ice axes, is needed.

8/ Yes, winter hiking is a challenge…

Somewhere between Kose-Uuemõisa and Alavere, we entered a small trail through the forest. ‘Trail’ is too big a word, as the snow covered any indications of where we were headed. We ducked under tree trunks, sank knee-deep into the snow and jumped over frozen streams.

Like that, we trudged at a snail’s pace through the landscape, vigilantly keeping our eyes out for the green and white markers we were following. Green and white! What a brilliant colour combo in a snowy pine forest! After hours, we emerged back into civilisation.

9/ … but the reward is glorious

We sat down in the comfortable chairs of a warm café. Crashed down is more like it. Outside it snowed, the windows foggy with condensation. When the friendly waitress brought us beers and burgers, we looked at each other. We had just walked 34 kilometres in sub-zero conditions, first in a bog in Vissuvere and then all the way back to Paide. Without saying anything, we both knew: if we didn’t deserve this now, then when?

Tips for winter hiking

Although it’s always easier to stay indoors, getting out and being active in wintertime works miracles for your physical and mental health.

• Daylight hours are fewer, so start your hike as early as you can.
• Dress in layers. You’d be surprised how quickly your body warms up during a brisk hike.
• Thermal underwear is a must.
• Consider winter hiking boots with extra insulation (this proved a lifesaver for Anete).
• Choose wool and synthetic clothes over cotton ones. The latter dry slowly.
• It’s tempting to pile layer upon layer, but avoid dressing too tightly. Poor blood circulation increases your chances of getting frostbite.
• Prepare accordingly. Look up temperatures and weather conditions. Research options to warm up in shops or cafés. Double-check bus and train times.
• In spite of what we said in (4), it’s likely you’ll do fewer kilometres. Deep snow can really slow you down.
• We don’t rely on a phone or GPS. If you do, be aware that batteries drain quickly in the cold. Have a back-up map or another way of navigation.
• Carry coffee, tea or another warm drink in a thermos.
• Drink enough water, even if it means more toilet breaks in the snow. In the cold, you can sometimes dehydrate without realising it. Also, regular sips from your bottle stop the water from freezing so quickly.
• Prepare snacks you can eat without breaking for too long, such as muesli bars. Eat regularly, your body consumes up to 50 per cent more calories in the cold.
• Take a headlamp, just in case. Once, we underestimated the length of our hike and walked for an hour in the dark. Luckily, a snow landscape reflects the last daylight well.
• Learn to understand the symptoms of hypothermia (uncontrollable or violent shivering, clumsiness, slurred speech) and frostbite (cold, pale skin, numbness, tingling) and act upon them. Get warm as soon as you can.