Things to Do in Paphos, Cyprus: Ancient History and Mediterranean Nature

For a year and a half, we had been anticipating a new trip, but each new rattle from Miss Rona threw a spanner in the works. At the beginning of 2022, we finally flew to Paphos, a harbour town in the southwest of Cyprus. Not that Cyprus was a choice of the heart, a destination that had been on our bucket list for years. Quite on the contrary, we hardly knew anything about this country. No, our decision was much more prosaic: we found an affordable direct flight from Tallinn and hoped, spurred by the naivety of ignorance, that in Cyprus, so far down south, we would end up closer to summer than to snow. Close, but no cigar. That, however, is a story for later.

Our introduction to Cyprus

Even when we didn’t have strong sensations about Cyprus, it felt great to be back in uncharted territory. It almost moved us. Because being an international couple is fun, but it can sometimes feel like a trap. Having two homes, little time remains to travel to new places. It distracts from the wider world. That’s why it was so nice to get on that rickety bus at the airport and to race into the sunset, past roadside restaurants with plastic furniture, orchards full of orange dots and grey-haired men who leave their fields with sickles in hand. From a ramshackle lemon yellow van, the driver announced with a megaphone that he had “freskes patátes” on offer. We were unprepared for what we would find in this country. Even the light was different than at home.

And that’s how it should be. During travels, you have to be like a child, a kid discovering the world for the first time, with no reference to previous experiences. From the layout of the streets, the smell of the cypress trees that tickled the nostrils, to the hunk of ‘village bread’ with halloumi in the shop, everything was new. We love to accidentally fall into the tub, to slowly peel away the layers. And yes, that means that we sometimes bang our faces against the walls – suddenly having to look for an adapter because we didn’t know Cyprus uses a UK socket. But may there still be a challenge, can travel remain the last crash course in getting by, in winging it? Or are we going to bulldoze every bump with apps and smartphones?

Anyway, before we get too philosophical, here are some things to do in and around Paphos, Cyprus:

1/ Clamber over the Tombs of the Kings

Close to our apartment, we found the first – but certainly not the last – archaeological site of this trip. Don’t let the name fool you: no royal blood lies under the soil at the Tombs of the Kings. The archaeologists nicknamed the site because of the luxuriant graves they found. No coincidence. During the Hellenistic era, when Paphos replaced Salamis as the capital of Cyprus, this was a very wealthy city.

A glimpse at the map reveals why. Paphos lies diagonally above the Egyptian port city Alexandria, at the time the largest metropolis in the Mediterranean world. Egypt regarded Cyprus, with its copper mines, wheat fields, olive groves and vineyards, as a treasury in which it liked to dig. Conversely, Egypt influenced Paphos, most evidently in the Tombs of the Kings. The granite columns of the temples came straight from Egypt, as did the funerary architecture.

Once a sprawling necropolis, the Tombs of the Kings is now a wasteland beside the Mediterranean sea, which slowly nibbles at the ruins. On both sides the site is surrounded by hotels; the nearby pubs and cafes lure English tourists with greasy breakfasts and cheap ale. But that doesn’t detract from the grandiosity of these fourth-century BC ruins.

Tombs of the Kings: practical

• Address: Tombs of the Kings Ave 63, Chloraka, Cyprus.
• Gps: N 34 46.497, E 32 24.447.
• Entrance fee: €2,5.

2/ Marvel at mosaics in Nea Paphos

In my native Belgium, a farmer with his plough encounters at most a shell from the First World War. In Cyprus, on the other hand, a farmer uncovered one of the best-preserved and most impressive collections of mosaics in the region. Archaeologists discovered the remains of Roman villas, adorned with “a sea of mosaics”, as Colin Thubron described in Journey Into Cyprus. The archaeological site in Nea Paphos boasts a Roman odeon, an agora and an early Christian basilica – i.e. meaningless stones to most untrained eyes – but it is mainly the mosaics that impress.

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In ancient times, floor mosaics were a way for the rich and famous to distinguish themselves from those with fewer denarii. Which makes us wonder – will future Earthlings later also marvel at expensive coffee machines, race cars or other contemporary status symbols? The mosaics depict scenes from everyday life, but also legends, gods, goddesses, heroes and heroines. The locals are, after all, Greek. A visit to the mosaics is Greek mythology 101*. Apollo, Daphne, Icarus, Dionysus, Phaedra, Hippolytus and Zeus: they’re all present.

In the House of Dionysus, for example, we see a mosaic of Scylla, a mythical sea monster that once terrorised the waters of the Mediterranean. Achilles enjoys his first bath in the House of Theseus; an ancient beauty pageant is being contested. A mosaic called ‘the first wine drinkers’ shows how two shepherds get shitfaced on the noble grape juice. Apparently, there is a sinister story attached to this: these first boozers thought that the winegrower was trying to poison them and they killed him without mercy. No good deed goes unpunished.

* Circe offers a real crash course into Greek mythology, an adaptation of several myths by American author Madeline Miller. Anete gave me this book for Christmas and it proved to be the ideal reading material during our later trip through Greece. Highly recommended.

Nea Paphos: practical:

• Address: at the port of Paphos, at the end of Poseidon Ave, Paphos, Cyprus.
• Gps: N 34 45.367, E 32 24.518.
• Entrance fee: €4,5.

3/ Stroll along the sea

Between Venus Beach and Paphos Castle, a trail follows the coast. It lends itself perfectly to strolling, past the beer-drinking Brits in plastic garden chairs on Lighthouse Beach and parallel with the archaeological site of Nea Paphos. On various benches you can, like us, have a picnic with olive bread or drink wine while watching the sunset. The castle was once a Byzantine fortress. The Venetians later partly demolished it, and the Ottomans gave it its current form. It served, among others, as a prison and salt storage. Finally, the path leads to Kato Paphos, or Lower Paphos, a maze of touristy streets.

4/ Eat an English British breakfast

After an earthquake destroyed the city, Paphos lay abandoned for centuries. That only changed a few decades ago, when tourists started discovering the region. Brits in particular feel like fish in the water in Paphos – maybe it has to with their long reign here. Result: a lot of British pubs.

In Coral Bay, which some say has one of the most beautiful beaches in the region, we ended up in a pub full of wintering Geordies. A flock of them sat in front of the TV with large pints. “Well done, sonny”, one of them honked as Allan Saint-Maximim scored a goal for their home team, Newcastle United.

You better take advantage of the presence of the British. Near our apartment, next to Jimmy’s Killer Prawns (“The Addictive Taste”), a small cafe called DT’s Sunset Bistro Bar opened its doors for us. For little money, the friendly Scottish owners served us a British breakfast – not an English one, because that is “a bad word”. You can choose between “wee” and “big”.

DT’s Sunset Bistro Bar: practical

• Address: Tombs of the Kings Ave, Paphos, Cyprus.
• Gps: N 34 46.747, E 32 24.395.

5/ Explore the Avakas Gorge

Relying on public transport, we had four kilometres to bridge between Agios Georgios, where the bus dropped us, and the start of the Avakas Gorge. This was far from a punishment. Past banana plantations and a Hellenistic necropolis, we walked up a goat trail, following footprints in the mud. Then a fabulous mountain scenery revealed itself, more majestic with every bend we rounded. A pristine white church stood photogenically on a cliff overlooking the sea, benches and tables strewn out under a leafy tree inviting people for a chat after the service. One would become religious for less.

The Avakas Gorge itself is a miracle of nature. A wide gravel path, meandering between Mediterranean cypresses and carob trees, gradually narrowed until we had to wade through a stream between limestone walls. This watercourse, no more imposing than the average creek, carved out the rocks tens of metres over the course of thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of years. The ultimate proof of the power of nature. The light transformed the gorge into a magical environment.

This narrowing is most popular with tourists who crave treats for their Instagram profiles. Most of them returned here, but the trail continues for four kilometres in total. The gorge widened again, vegetation returned and we were soon joined by a herd of blaring goats. We couldn’t complete the whole loop, but the day was nevertheless a success.

Note: we made the walk in January. Outside the winter, the river dries up mostly and you can supposedly avoid getting wet feet.

Avakas Gorge: practical

Public transport to the Avakas Gorge

The bus will not get you all the way from Paphos to the Avakas Gorge. The short walk from Agios Georgios, however, completes the experience and offers you an opportunity to soak up the atmosphere of the Cypriot countryside. Bus 615 connects Paphos with Coral Bay several times an hour, where you can change to bus 616 to Agios Georgios. It is a further four-kilometre walk to the Avakas gorge parking lot.

Route 615

(Harbour Station – Coral Bay, via Ap. Pavlou Av., Tombs of the Kings Av., Chloraka to Kissonerga Coastal Road, Coral Bay Av.)

From Harbour Station. Monday – Friday (September – May): 6:20, 6:30, 7:30, 8:00-12:10 (every 10 minutes), 12:25-13:55 (every 15 minutes), 14:10-16:40 (every 10 minutes), 16:55, 17:10, 17:25, 17:35, 17:50. Monday – Friday (June – August) + school holidays + Saturdays + Sundays: 6:20, 6:30, 7:30, 8:00-11:50 (every 10 minutes), 12:05, 12:20, 12:30, 12:40, 12:55, 13:10-16:20 (every 10 minutes), 16:35-17:20 (every 15 minutes), 17:40. Night routes (April – November, Monday – Sunday): 18:00-22:20 (every 20 minutes), 22:45, 23:00-0:00 (every 20 minutes), 00:15, 00:30. Night routes (December – March, Monday – Sunday): 18:00-23:15 (every 35 minutes).

From Coral Bay. Monday – Friday (September – May): 7:00, 8:05, 8:35-9:25 (every 10 minutes), 9:40-13:00 (every 10 minutes), 13:15-14:15 (every 15 minutes), 14:35, 14:50-17:30 (every 10 minutes), 17:45, 18:00, 18:10, 18:25. Monday – Friday (June – August) + school holidays + Saturdays + Sundays: 7:00, 7:25, 8:05, 8:35, 8:45, 8:55, 9:05, 9:20-12:40 (every 10 minutes), 12:55, 13:10, 13:20, 13:30, 13:45, 14:00-17:00 (every 10 minutes), 17:15, 17:30, 17:45, 18:00, 18:20. Night routes (April – November, Monday – Sunday): 18:35-22:15 (every 20 minutes), 22:35, 22:55, 23:20, 23:35, 23:55, 0:15, 0:35, 0:55, 01:05. Night routes (December – March, Monday – Sunday): 18:35-23:50 (every 35 minutes).

Route 616

(Coral Bay – Agios Georgios Pegeias, via Coral Bay Av., Michalaki Kyprianou, Pegeia Square, Zalatzion, Kaminion, Panagias Zalatziotissas, Akamantos, Agios Georgios Pegeias Av., Agios Georgios Church Square)

From Coral Bay: 8:30, 9:30, 10:30, 11:30, 13:30, 14:30, 15:30, 16:30. + April – November: 19:30, 20:30, 21:30, 22:30.

From Agios Georgios: 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00 + April – November: 20:00, 21:00, 22:00, 23:00.

• Gps Avakas Gorge: N 34 55.250, E 32 20.285.

6/ Discover the birthplace of Aphrodite

Aphrodite’s Rock – Petra tou Romiou in Greek – sticks impressively out of the water some 25 kilometres outside of Paphos. Uranus, heaven in the flesh and both son and husband of Mother Earth herself, had a son, the titan Cronus. He brutally castrated Uranus with a sickle and threw his father’s genitals into the sea. As one does. Around the white foam that formed, in this turquoise bay, Aphrodite was born. Yes, Greeks have a lot of imagination. Or they consume strong drugs here, that’s another option.

On stormy days, the phantom of Aphrodite supposedly sometimes shows itself here. But during our visit, on a cool January day, the sea turned out to be as flat as a pancake. A Polish tourist braved the water – she may have read that it could bring her eternal youth. Her travel companion, a little fellow with a bald head, seemed more interested in finding the right angle for his camera. He walked around nervously, taking small steps, looking for the perfect shot. We strolled a while on the pebble beach ourselves. Unfortunately, we discovered the 7-kilometre nature trail – a bit higher up the mountain, past the old road Paphos to Limassol – too late.

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The ghost of Aphrodites haunts places all over Cyprus, the land is full of references to the daughter of Zeus and the nymph Dione, daughter of heaven and earth. In this pond, she washed after entertaining her hordes of lovers. Under this oak tree, she rested after a marathon session in the bed. There isn’t a rock on this goddamn island that Aphrodite hasn’t parked her beautiful ass on. We kind of get why. Aphrodite was a hot number, a sexy bunny. The goddess of fertility inspired many a sculptor to mold luscious breasts and voluptuous hips. A mythical sculptor, Pygmalion, fell so head over heels in love with his own creation that he slept with his statue. It gave birth to a daughter – named Paphos, inspiration for the city.

The cult of Aphrodite lived well into classical antiquity. Herodotus spoke of rites that dictated that every woman, regardless of rank or position, should serve Aphrodite at least once in her life. By waiting in a temple for a stranger to come to lie by her side. “Tall, handsome women soon manage to get home again, but the ugly ones stay a long time before they can fulfil the conditions which the law demands, some of them, indeed, as much as three or four years”, Herodotus wrote.

Aphrodite’s Rock: practical

Public transport to Aphrodite’s Rock

Bus 631 connects the bus station near the port of Paphos directly with Aphrodite’s Rock.

Route 631

(Harbour station – Aphrodite Rock)

From Harbour station. Monday – Saturday: 7:25, 9:10, 10:40, 14:10, 16:00, 18:40, 22:30. Sunday: 6:30, 9:10, 10:40, 14:10, 16:00, 18:40, 22:30.

From Aphrodite Rock. Monday – Saturday: 8:15, 10:05, 11:35, 15:05, 16:55, 19:30, 23:15 (0:00 from Aphrodite Hills Resort). Sunday: 8:15, 10:05, 11:35, 15:05, 16:55, 19:30, 23:15 (0:00 from Aphrodite Hills Resort).

Gps Aphrodite Rock: N 34 39.823, E 32 37.681.

7/ Spend a few lazy days in Polis

If Paphos attracts hordes of foreign tourists, Polis offers a more local alternative. This became evident already on the bus, where one big and noisy conversation ensued between all the passengers, front and back, and the bus driver. One fellow passenger, in particular, clucked in a high-pitched voice, sounding like a cartoon character. In Polis, we found no pubs with British comfort food and menus in Greek, English and Russian, but local-looking tavernas with checkered tablecloths.

The reception of Nicos & Olympia Apartments, where we stayed, looked like grandma’s living room, with old sofas and a 1970s decor. The same could be said about our room – wooden furniture, brown curtains, an old-fashioned bathtub, plastic flowers and a wardrobe so hefty that a Cypriot family could store clothes for a month in it. A perfect insight into how the locals spend their holidays.

Polis acts as a springboard to Akamas National Park and has some beaches. But don’t plan too much else. This is the kind of town where you have to let life take its course. Pop into Costa’s Corner, a local bar that somehow mixes a Greek taverna (sirtaki dancers on the walls! plastic flowers!) with a hard rock café (guitars! a soundtrack of hair metal!) The staff treated customers like old friends – cook Maria shared details about her personal life after just 30 seconds – and even gave us a bag of fresh oranges.

Polis: practical

Public transport to Polis.

Bus 645 runs regularly between Paphos and Polis.

Route 645

(Polis Chrysochous – Paphos, via Chrysochou, Goudi, Choli, Skoulli, Giolou, Stroumbi, Tsada, Karavella station)

From Polis Chrysochous. Monday – Friday: 5:30, 6:30, 8:00, 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 13:00, 13:45, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00, 20:00. Saturday: 6:30, 8:00, 9:00, 12:00, 14:00, 15:00, 17:00, 18:00, 20:00. Sunday + public holidays: 9:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 16:00, 17:00, 19:00.

From Karavella station. Monday – Friday: 6:20, 8:00, 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 14:10, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00, 19:00, 21:00. Saturday: 8:00, 9:00, 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 16:00, 18:00, 19:00, 21:00. Sunday + public holidays: 10:00, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 17:00, 18:00, 20:00.

Sleeping in Polis

We stayed in Nicos & Olympia Apartments, a charming family pension run by an older couple. Address: Arsinois 1, Poli Crysochous, Cyprus. Gps: N 35 2.118, E 32 25.689.

Eating and drinking in Polis

Costa’s Corner. Gps: N 35 2.039, E 32 25.504.

8/ Hike the Aphrodite trail in Akamas National Park

A pair of hiking boots, a thermos of coffee, a hunk of bread and a generous helping of hummus – a picnic high on the rocks, overlooking the entire peninsula. A break on a bench under an olive tree. An ice-cold beer afterwards. One certainly doesn’t need much to be content. National Park Akamas, easily accessible from Polis, is perfect for long hiking days.

Because Akamas used to be a training ground for the British RAF, hardly any people live on the peninsula. This gives nature free rein – as evidenced by the endemic plant species that only grow in this nature reserve, the green turtles that use the area as a nesting spot. A perfect day of hiking on the Aphrodite trail was only momentarily interrupted by the drone of a pack of Russian cavemen looking for a hero shot on the mountaintop. Next time, my stone will hit the target, promise!

National Park Akamas: practical

Public transport to National Park Akamas

From Polis, bus 622 regularly leaves for the Baths of Aphrodite.

Route 622

(Polis Chrysochous – Baths of Aphrodite, via Prodromi, Latchi)

From Polis Chrysochous. Monday – Friday: 6:00, 8:00, 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00. Saturday + Sunday + public holidays: 6:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 14:00, 15:00, 18:00.

From Baths of Aphrodite. Monday – Friday: 6:30, 8:30, 9:30, 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, 15:30, 16:30, 17:30, 18:30. Saturday + Sunday + public holidays: 6:30, 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, 14:30, 15:30, 18:30.

Near the baths, the Aphrodite trail starts. Gps: N 35 3.439, E 32 20.693. Alternatively, the Adonis trail heads more inland. Feeling energised? Try combining both.

9/ Soak up the local atmosphere

Despite the presence of tourism, you will still find plenty of signs of authentic Cyprus in and around Paphos. The chubby grannies with knee-length woollen stockings, feeding packs of Whiskas to armies of street cats. The taxi drivers in brightly coloured training vests. A young man pushed a laminated portrait of the Virgin Mary into our hands. “If you have any problems, ask her for help”, he said, before driving off.

A bus driver – shiny bald head, heavy foot, a little too much energy – lit a cigarette in his bus before leaving, just below the message NO SMOKING. In his bus, we rumbled down a slope – the driver pressing the brake with full force – as a fabulous coastal panorama revealed itself, glittering sea as far as the eye could see. Equal portions of Thanatos and Eros. No wonder most of the buses here carry a religious icon.

10/ Admire the sunset

As mentioned before, the light falls beautifully in Cyprus. Aphrodite’s Rock is popular for sunsets, although you can also admire them at the church of Agios Georgios.

11/ Drink craft beer from all over the world

We’re not going to claim that we don’t enjoy a cold Keo. But after a month and a half, it’s nice to have a change. On one of our last days in Cyprus, when returning to Paphos for our flight to Belgium, we popped in at The Old Fishing Shack. This pub is legendary in Paphos for its wall-to-wall craft beer selection and deadpan owner Athos who sells them with great passion. Try the homemade cider and the Shockwave Pale Ale from Nicosia. Warning for budget travellers: very pricey, so watch out for what you order.

The Old Fishing Shack: practical

• Address: Τεύκρου, Paphos, Cyprus.
• Gps: N 34 45.518, E 32 25.086.

Paphos: practical

Cheap accommodation in Paphos

We passed through Paphos three times and stayed in two different places:

>> Panklitos Apartments. Budget-friendly studios, including a kitchenette and access to an outdoor swimming pool. Amiable owners who were always ready to help. This is where we spent most of our time.
>> Kiniras Hotel. A characterful family business where we also ate an excellent breakfast.

Cheap eats in Paphos

We ate a lot of delicious stuff from the bakery – olive, halloumi and tahini bread, pita with honey. The local bread tastes good with tahini, hummus or tzatziki from the store. We also regularly cooked. Supermarkets Lidl and Papantoniou offer many options. We ate vegetarian souvlaki at affordable prices in The Three Little Pigs Grill House.

Public transportation in Paphos

At the time of our visit, bus tickets cost €1,50 for a single ride, and €5 for the day. After noticing that the (non-official) website www.paphosbus.com/ contained minor errors, we obtained all the official schedules from Paphos Transport Organisation. They are all correct at the time of our visit (January 2022), We are, however, not responsible for changes. If you notice any mistakes, feel free to reach out.

This post first appeared in Dutch on Tom’s blog. Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, which means we might earn a small commission if you decide to buy something – at no cost to you.