The ultimate guide to backpacking in Belize

Crammed between Mexico, Guatemala and the Caribbean Sea, Belize feels both Central American as well as Caribbean. Culture, relaxation, nature and adventure are rolled into one sun-drenched, napkin-sized country. Formerly known as British Honduras, Belize’s colourful local crowd speaks English.

Thanks to its tiny population density, the smallest in the region, Belize boasts vast swaths of pristine nature. Forests and jungle cover around 60 per cent of the country and are home to a myriad of species. Parks contain hundreds of kilometres of well-maintained hiking trails and waterfalls to cool down in.

The Caribbean Sea in front of 386 kilometres of coastline is dotted with small islands, called cayes, amidst the second biggest coral reef in the world. Caribbean vibes abound on these cayes, where palms are ever swaying and happy hours run around the clock. Grab a cold Belikin beer (or a stout!), park your lazy ass in a hammock, look at the pelicans circling over your head and enjoy the salty Caribbean air. Aah! If it weren’t for the loud Bob Marley music, this truly would be heaven.

Relaxed enough? Head inland to explore the Mayan heartland, climb towering temples and meet the descendants of their architects. The biggest adventure awaits in the ATM Cave, where you’ll discover the bones of the fair maiden, a human sacrifice to the Mayan god of rain, but only after clambering over rocks and squeezing between water-filled crevices.

Who should visit Belize?

Due to the proximity of the USA, you’ll meet many American pensioners and honeymooners in Belize. They often congregate on the islands, sometimes in fancy resorts whose price tags will likely make you want to cry an eyeball out. Backpackers tend to shun Belize, because of its perceived higher cost of travelling, or at least rush through it. Whilst it true that you’ll need a bit more cash here than in Guatemala or Mexico, budget travellers (like us) can still make the most out of a visit to Belize. The country is also popular with (scuba) divers and snorkelers.

When should I visit Belize?

The dry season runs from October to April, which is when you’ll pay higher prices for hotel rooms. We are, however, advocates of travelling outside of the peak season. We stayed in Belize from the beginning of May to the end of June, when temperatures rose and rose and rose but the rains hadn’t kicked in yet. Hurricane season runs from June to November, so check local media updates and ask around if you’re travelling in that period of time.

Essential practical information

Money

Belize uses the Belizean dollar (BZD), which is pegged to the American dollar at a rate of 2:1. Most bigger cities have ATM’s. Smaller places, even touristic ones, often don’t.

Visa

Residents from Belgium, Estonia or the rest of the EU, as well as the USA (and a bunch of others), don’t need a visa for stays up until 30 days. We extended our visa for another month, at the cost of 50 BZD (around 22 EUR). We did this in the immigration office in Belmopan, but every district has a similar office. Upon departure, you have to pay an exit fee of 40 BZD (around 18 EUR). Make sure your passport is valid for six months after your intended departure. Read more about the official visa regulations.

What to do in Belize?

Our top experiences include:

Relax and soak up Caribbean vibes

We arrived in Belize City after a dog-tiring two days of travelling. No wonder we headed towards Caye Caulker straight away. The motto of this lazy backpacker island is ‘go slow’ and locals and visitors alike don’t take that adage lightly. There are hundreds of cayes in Belize – some privately owned, others open to tourism – but you can also find idyllic beach towns on the mainland.

Where? Caye Caulker, Hopkins, Sarteneja (amongst plenty of others).

Snorkel in the second-biggest reef in the world

Charles Darwin described the Belize Barrier Reef as “the most remarkable reef in the West Indies”, and who are we to argue with the father of the evolution theory? Belize’s reef straddles the coast over a distance of 300 kilometres, as part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System (or, perhaps more poetically, the Great Mayan Reef), the second-longest in the world behind only the Great Barrier Reef.

Where? We undertook a snorkelling expedition from Hopkins, but most touristic coastal towns will offer options. Be aware that the reef is much closer to the mainland and the islands in the north of the country. Making a trip from there, you’ll lose less time in a boat.

Descend into the ‘place of fear’

An exploration of the ATM Cave, short for Actun Tunichil Muknal, is half adventure tour, half history lesson. You’ll make your way through a cave system until you find pottery and the bones of humans. Sacrificed by the Mayans in the hope Chaac would make it rain. No wonder the Mayans called their underworld Xibalba, ‘the place of fear’. The ATM Cave is one of the key attractions for adventurous travellers in Belize, at least for the ones who are not hindered by a fear of tight spaces.

Where? The ATM Cave lies in the western Cayo district. In San Ignacio, its biggest city, many tour operators offer the trip.

Explore the jungle and spot wildlife

Just take a look at a recent satellite map and you’ll see why nature lovers like Belize so much. Unlike neighbour Guatemala, the country has managed to protect quite a bit of its land. We loved visiting the national parks and taking long walks in rugged terrain, trails leading through lush rainforest towards refreshing waterfalls. Keep your eyes open, the place is buzzing with life. Chances are small that you’ll spot a jaguar, but the forests are full of colourful birds, acrobatic spider monkeys and – is that a dinosaur? – howler monkeys.

Where? Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Preserve (from Hopkins), Mayflower Bocawina National Park (from Dangriga), Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve (from San Ignacio), St. Herman’s Blue Hole National Park (from Dangriga).

Visit impressive Maya temples

The ancient Mayans surely left their mark on the region. The whole country is strewn with Mayan remains. Ram your shovel in the ground anywhere and chances are you’ll hit artefacts. (Although, one French Workaway volunteer on the Stardust Sanctuary Farm tried and found something big with weird symbols on it. Turned out it was an old water cistern.) There are more sites than archaeologists and money to excavate them, but a few of them are open to the public.

Where? We visited Cahal Pech, Xunantunich and bunch of smaller ones. Other important sites include Altun Ha (made famous by Belikin Beer’s label), Caracol and Lamanai.

What to eat in Belize?

Belize’s mix of ethnicities led to a varied cuisine, a mix of Central American and Anglo-Caribbean. Three essentials to try in Belize:

Rice and beans.

According to Andy Palacio, a local musician, the common Belizean identity is exemplified by “punta rock, fear of Guatemala, rice and beans and stew chicken, and the English language.” Originally a Creole dish, every Belizean nowadays loves rice and beans, often served with stewed chicken, gravy, potato salad and plantains. Yummy.

Fry jacks

Like their Guatemalan neighbours, Belizeans eat lots of corn tortillas. They do, however, serve a great alternative: fry jacks. These deep-fried dough pieces simply taste delicious with a traditional breakfast of eggs, refried beans and plantains. Stuffed fry jacks, with beans or eggs inside of the dough, are delightful as well, a thumb-greasing variety which, alas, we didn’t find all that often.

Marie Sharpe’s famous hot sauce

Just like rice and beans, Marie Sharpe’s hot sauce unites Belize. It comes in many heat levels and smoked varieties and can be found on the tables of most restaurants. It’s by far my favourite hot sauce in the region.

What to drink in Belize?

Belikin Beer

National drink number one.

Coconut rum

Yummy by itself, but also mixes well with pineapple juice, combining into a cocktail which Belizeans call a ‘panty rippa’. No explanations needed.

Fresh fruit juices

Tasty, cheap and found everywhere, many food stalls and restaurants serve varieties such as sorrel (Jamaica, or hibiscus), watermelon, mango, pineapple and soursop.

How much does travelling in Belize cost?

There’s no denying that Belize is more expensive than its neighbouring countries. In this post about budgeting for a trip through Central America, I go deeper into the cost of backpacking in Belize. Having said that, the smart budget traveller can still move around the country without breaking the bank too much.

A few tips:

• Travel in the off-season. When we arrived at the beginning of May, the owner of our guesthouse in Caye Caulker had just lowered the price of a room.
• Avoid tours and travel by bus. Or hitchhike, a practice fairly common with locals as well.
• If you can, you should avoid buying plastic altogether. But the water from plastic bags is significantly cheaper than from plastic bottles.
• Volunteer. We used Workaway to find a farm near San Antonio.

How to travel around Belize?

Belize is compact, so distances are never too big. Local buses served us very well, although they often don’t enter parks. A bit of improvisation might be needed if you don’t want to splurge on private taxis. Belizeans, however, are a friendly bunch and always ready to give you a ride in the back of their pickups. Hitchhiking is common. Highways are generally in good shape, but be aware that smaller roads can be bumpy and potholed. You can find bus schedules here. This is also a good resource when it comes to buses in Belize.

How much time do you need in Belize?

We stayed for two months, and then came back for another week. Half of that time, however, we spent pulling out weeds. Nevertheless, we recommend reserving at least two weeks for Belize, to get the flavour of the two faces of the country, the islands and the inland jungle.

Is Belize safe?

Belize has one of the highest per capita murder rates in the world. If you mingle with the locals, you might hear some of the stories. Especially Belize City experiences its fair share of drug-related gang violence and can feel like the type of place you don’t want to hang around for too long. You’ll hear lots of police sirens and might see graffiti on shop blinds commemorating the fallen heroes: R.I.P. JR. Balls/Stephon/Black/Circo.

Having said that, you’re unlikely to experience any problems as a tourist. Unless you’re out to buy half a pound of cocaine at midnight in a sketchy hood of Belize City, you’re unlikely to be affected by any gang violence. Most of the rest of the country, and especially the areas frequented by tourists, are safe. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t stay aware of your surroundings and take normal precautions. Don’t get shitfaced by yourself, don’t flash around cash and don’t be an ass, and you’ll probably be fine. “Most visits to Belize happen without any issues”, reads the Belgian foreign ministry’s travel advice.

Suggested books, films and music

• Mosquito Coast (film): While set in Honduras, the movie was filmed in Belize. It also showed us some dystopian problems that emigrating Americans might face, which were later confirmed to be not too far from reality.

We only recommend things that we’ve experienced ourselves. If you spot a mistake, notice that certain information is outdated or just want to add a recommendation, feel free to drop us a line.

Further reading