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Away from the touristy coastal areas, beaches and English pubs lie the Troodos Mountains. Wild mountain passes, ghost villages and not a metre of tarmac: this is definitely not the Cyprus you know from airbrushed travel brochures. It is eight in the morning when Tasos puts a shot glass of

Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus, is the last divided city in Europa – split between two communities, living side by side but with a border separating them. Since 1989, when the Wall came down in Berlin, Nicosia has been Europe’s only divided capital. Walk from one side to the other

Hidden behind a barricade in Northern Cyprus lies Varosha, once a glamorous resort town on the Mediterranean coast, now a haunting ghost town frozen in time. We unravel Varosha’s secrets, confront the conflicting emotions of curiosity and guilt, navigate the geopolitical complexities and contemplate the ethical implications of visiting a

Divided by a border called the Green Line, Cyprus is an island of two halves. The Cypriot Greeks and the Turks act like long-estranged spouses, still unsure if they should go on with their messy divorce or get back together asap. “The Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus is Erdogan’s dollhouse.”

We had just landed in Paphos and were waiting for a bus that would take us from the airport to the city when a white and orange cat, a Garfield incarnate, climbed onto my lap. The cat gave me a few gentle headbutts and snuggled up to me stoically, completely