The sun slowly sinks behind a honeycomb of sandstone and brick-red totem poles. And afterwards… a starry sky that turns everyone into a philosopher. Few camping experiences are as magical as those in the desert. But putting up your tent also requires a lot of preparation and knowledge. Here’s what Tom learnt from camping for four nights in the desert of Jordan.
Weather
>> Rain
It may sound strange that you should be wary of rain in the desert. Yet, it is true. In the Jordan mountains, rain falls in short, intense periods, especially during winter and early spring. In such a rocky environment, rain does not seep into the soil, but it instead follows the path of least resistance. As a result, a deluge often leads to flash floods. If you chose that photogenic spot in the middle of a gorge or a dried-up riverbed to pitch your tent, because the terrain is nice and flat… Well, I probably don’t have to paint you a picture. Inform yourself about the weather and, wherever possible, pitch your tent high.
>> Cold
The desert is an environment of extremes. The landscape may look barren at first glance, yet it is bursting with life. Another example: no matter how high the temperatures rise during the day, they cool down quickly at night. Do your research, ask locals and adjust your equipment accordingly. That means a robust three-season tent, a ditto sleeping bag and mat, combined with a liner. After sunset, dress in layers – fleece, thermal sweater, and windproof raincoat. That way, you’ll capture your body heat and you’ll crawl into your sleeping bag warm.
More tips to stay warm in the tent.
>> Wind
Because of the big differences in temperatures, the wind is notoriously fierce in the desert – especially in the evening and at night. Guy and storm lines are not optional here, attach them all. This will make your tent tighter, more aerodynamic and less likely to flap in the wind, minimising the pressure on the poles. Affix the lines as perpendicular as possible. Wind directions may change, but try to place your tent with its ‘ass to the wind’. The more narrow the profile of your tent, the more aerodynamic. All the better if you can find a natural windbreak, such as a rare tree, a bush or a bulky rock.
Gear and clothing for camping in the desert
>> Tent
Don’t expect to find a perfect pitch in the desert. In these regions, a flat, four-square-metre grassy lawn is likely to be a mirage. Camping in Jordan means rocks, rocks, rocks, so many that it’s a hopeless task to try and clear a campsite. In such circumstances, a sturdy ground sheet is worth its weight in gold.
Tent stakes, too, suffer, which is why local guides swear by rock pegs. You won’t need a hammer, the ground is covered with natural alternatives. Note that not every desert is the same. In an endless ocean of sand, snow and sand pegs will be more useful to keep your tent firmly in place.
>> Clothes
The Bedouins of Jordan protect themselves from the sun by covering their whole body. This can be an option, think long-sleeved shirts, bandannas and wide-brimmed hats. Personally, I dislike having lots of clothes on in the heat. I prefer an excess of sunscreen, combined with a decent pair of sunglasses and light clothing that sheds sweat.
Water
Water is life, especially in the desert. You rarely come across a source, much less a tap. Especially when walking from camp to campsite, you need to be prepared. In practice, this happens in Jordan with water deliveries. If you hike with an organisation, like I did on the Jordan Trail, you’ll get the chance to replenish your supply every morning and evening. Expert hikers, who can read a map and have experience in such inhospitable landscapes, can venture out independently. In that case, do contact a reliable local guide who will bring or leave water – and food, if you wish – at agreed times and places.
In the desert, dangers like overheating and dehydration lurk behind every rock. A lack of moisture or minerals can have serious, potentially dangerous consequences. So does a body that is no longer capable of cooling itself down. Learn to recognise the signals and accept the limits of your body. Drink plenty, even when you don’t feel thirsty. And put more water in your backpack than you think you’ll need. Yes, it might be heavy. Dehydration, however, is much heavier.
This blog post first appeared in Dutch on Kampeertijd.
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